UPCYCLED INGREDIENTS
aggression, showing a cell viability significantly higher than CTR+ (+46.5%). ■ A protective potential against toxic effect of urban dust, being effective in the protection against oxidative stress induced by polluting agents (-46.1% vs CTR+).
In vivo dossier: Pro-ageing effect A clinical-instrumental study was carried out on 20 female subjects aged between 18 and 35 years old clinically showing fine lines in the periocular area. A formulation containing 1% of the dermomimetic ceramide is compared versus placebo; volunteers apply, in a blind way, the active product on one hemi-face and the placebo product on the other hemi-face according to a defined randomization scheme. Targeting young skin for pro-ageing
treatment, after 28 days of treatment, the ingredient has demonstrated significant results: ■ The increase of skin moisturizing index, respectively by +15.4%. ■ The increase of skin elasticity, respectively by +6.4% (R2 parameter). ■ The increase of skin firmness, respectively by +8.2% (R0 parameter). ■ The increase of skin smoothness by +9.4% (Ra parameter). Moreover, instrumental results are also
confirmed by the clinical analysis carried out by the dermatologist, that highlighted the following. ■ An improvement of skin smoothness in 65% of the enrolled subjects at T14 and in 70% at T28. ■ An improvement of fine lines appearance in 60% of the enrolled subjects at T14 and in 65% at T28. At the end of the study, volunteers have
been asked to express their opinion on tested products by answering to a questionnaire. More than 80% of the participants expressed their satisfaction in terms of the positive effect demonstrated by the dermomimetic ceramide (Figure 1).
In vivo dossier: Anti-wrinkle effect An additional clinical-instrumental study was carried out on 20 female subjects aged between 30 and 65 years old, to evaluate the ingredient’s behaviour as anti-wrinkle on mature skin. A formulation containing 2% of the dermomimetic ceramide is compared versus placebo with a single product application on volar surface of forearm.
71
Placebo ■ 1% CeraFluid■
100 80 60 40 20 0
Fine lines are reduced
Improved skin general aspect
Skin is smoother
Skin is moisturized Skin is more elastic Skin is toner/firmer
Skin complexion is more uniform
Figure 1: Self-assessment evaluation of the subjects taking part in the study, at T28 The bioavailable ceramide has
demonstrated the following. ■ The improvement of skin elasticity (in just 30 minutes) by 14.24%. ■ The decrease of skin microwrinkles, up to 11.63% in 30 days. ■ The improvement of skin smoothness (at seven, 15 and 30 days). After the treatment with 2% of tested
item, the wrinkle depth on the face skin is significantly reduced and skin smoothness is improved (Figure 2).
Conclusion The innovation of the ingredient - CeraFluid - is linked to its enhanced compatibility with the skin and its deep penetration into it, thanks to the synergy between olive glycerides and ceramides. This improves the ceramide-NP bioavailability allowing boosted moisturizing effects and faster results. A benefit of this technology allows very
simple use in production, without the need to heat up the T°C as for standard ceramides. The dermomimetic ceramide is not toxic for the environment and is considered biodegradable. The result is a sustainable, performing and environmentally safe cosmetic ingredient. The product is dedicated to B2B cosmetic
market; it is available worldwide and the preferred applications are represented by ultra- hydrating creams, anti-ageing serums, make up-care and repairing hair care. With a global view, the ceramide market
size reached $372.9 million in 2022. Looking forward, The International Market Analysis Research and Consulting Group expects the market to reach $531.9 million by 2028, with a compound annual growth rate of 5.5% during 2023-2028.5
PC
References 1. Uchida Y, Park K. Ceramides in Skin Health and Disease: An Update. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology. 2021 Nov;22(6):853- 866. doi: 10.1007/s40257-021-00619-2
2. Coderch L, López L, de la Maza A, Parra JL. Ceramides and skin function. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology. 2003;4(2):107-29. doi: 10.2165/00128071- 200304020-00004
3. Dréno B. What is new in the pathophysiology of acne, an overview. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology. September 2017, pages 8-12
4. Journal of Clinical and Aestethic Dermatology. March 2014
Figure 2: Wrinkle visibility: before and after the treatment
www.personalcaremagazine.com
5. The International Market Analysis Research and Consulting Group. Ceramide Market: Global Industry Trends, Share, Size, Growth, Opportunity and Forecast 2023-2028
September 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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