MARINE INGREDIENTS
Selenastrum minutum or Nannochloropsis oculate.8
Those lipids are involved in different
metabolic routes such as phospholipid synthesis which make keratinocytes to produce more lipids such as ceramides or triglycerides.9 It is also involved in the formation of the
stratum corneum matrix that is composed by ceramides (45%), cholesterol (30%) and free fatty acids (15%). Specifically, linoleic acid is a key PUFA as it is incorporated in form of ω-hydroxylated ceramide, involved in the organization of the cells over the skin layers. Moreover, there are other derived- PUFAs molecules including prostaglandins or leukotrienes that allows the epidermal differentiation. So, the PUFAs function on skin barrier formation and organization in translated into a well-organized skin and strong skin barrier. Regarding marine pigments, there
are different groups involved in solar protection such as carotenoids, chlorophylls or scytonemin.10
For instance, it was
demonstrated that topical application of b-carotene before UVR exposure to the UVR reduced by 50% the formation of lipid peroxidation markers such as thiobarbituric acid reactive substances (TBARS).11 Lipid peroxidation is a mechanism that is
produced by UVR exposure in which the sebum of the skin is peroxided. This results in a thicker skin and leads to hyperkeratosis and comedones formation which avoid the later discharge of sebum.12
Inside carotenoids group, echinenone
is of special interest as it is a carotenoid and (a xantophyll), that has not been thoroughly studied in cosmetic and it has a potential as a novel ROS scavenging pigment.13 There are other photoprotective molecules
such as lutein or astaxanthin. Lutein reinforces the skin barrier as it increases superficial lipid content but also avoid lipid peroxidation.14
Astaxanthin acts as ROS
scavenger, reduces TBARS production and inhibits the action of certain antioxidant enzymes. Scytonemin is a lipophilic pigment that is found in the polysaccharide sheath of certain cyanobacteria such as Calothrix sp., Scytonema sp. and Synechococcus sp.
UVB: 315nm
3.5 3
2.5 2
1.5 1
0.5 0
UVA: 378nm Blue light: 378nm Figure 2: Marine active ingredient mechanism for UV-R photoprotection
This compound is a great UVR absorber, ROS scavenger but it is also effective at decreasing thymine dimer formation which is a precursor of skin cancer.4 Phytoplankton microbiota produces vitamins such as vitamin C or vitamin E and p-coumaric acid is released thanks to the membrane cellular degradation.16
P-coumaric
acid is a phenol with multifunctional effect: due to its UV absorption and antioxidant action, p-coumaric acid can inhibit the signaling pathways linked to gene expression of tyrosinase and inflammatory mediators. It can also reduce the stimulatory effects
of hormones and L-tyrosine on the gene expression of tyrosinase and it suppresses
the release of stratifin in keratinocytes (SFN), demonstrated in invitro in UVR-irradiated HaCaT cells. In addition, it prevents the expression of matrix metallopeptidase 1 (MMP1), which promotes collagen biosynthesis.17
around 50-60% of the extracellular matrix of phytoplankton.20
55
Vitamins act as
antioxidant but also stimulate collagen synthesis and avoid lipid peroxidation.18,19 Saccharides are compounds that represent
It is demonstrated that
certain kinds of those saccharides present beneficial effects for the skin. Some of them are involved in the structuration and protection of the dermal matrix promoting the collagen synthesis (trehalose) and acting as ROS scavengers (galactose and mannitol) but also of the epidermis layer avoiding lipid peroxidation.21,22,23 Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) are
colourless, small (<400 Da) and water-soluble compounds with an aminocyclohexenone or an aminocyclohexenimine ring and an aminoalcohol or nitrogen substituents. They have been reported in literature as high-value compounds for cosmetics as they present properties to enhance the skin health. Strains such as Gloeocaspa sp., Nostoc commune, Anabaena sp., Lyngbya sp., and Scenedesmus sp. are potent producers of mycosporine- glycine or Asterina-330, which are potent MAAs antioxidant and avoid lipid peroxidation. MAAs act at epidermal and dermal levels.4,24
190 240 290 340 390 440 490 540 590 640 690 740 740 λ (nm)
Figure 3: Wavelength absorbance capacity of marine active ingredient by UV-Vis spectroscopy
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Novel UV-R sun protectors based- on marine molecules Learning from nature, we biomimic the metabolic defence pathways found in marine
September 2023 PERSONAL CARE
Absorbance (u.a.)
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