SKIN MICROBIOME
Microbiome-friendly ingredient certification
Catherine Zanchetta, Agathe Parent, Justine Catala, Patrick Robe – Givaudan ABSTRACT
The skin microbiome is essential for healthy skin, and consumers are increasingly seeking microbiome- approved cosmetics. However, the current certification landscape for microbiome- approved ingredients and products lacks consistent scientific scrutiny, and existing certification systems can prove inadequate. To address this gap, Givaudan Active Beauty developed the B-Biome Score™, a standardized, scientifically rigorous certification process for cosmetic ingredients and products that are harmonious with the skin microbiome. Dermatologically approved and scientifically peer-reviewed, it offers rigorous assessment of microbiome- friendliness. This certification meets Givaudan’s scientific standards and will provide Givaudan customers with a scientifically tested process with which to develop and evaluate cosmetic ingredients and products.
For several years, increasing numbers of cosmetic products have been certified as ‘microbiome-friendly’ or ‘microbiome-tested’. In theory, such labelling is designed to help cosmetics brands and the growing number of consumers who are becoming aware of the skin microbiome and the role of a balanced microbial ecosystem in maintaining healthy skin. A survey found 78% of consumers worldwide understand that when the skin microbiome is out of balance, it can result in skin issues such as acne-prone, sensitive or dry skin.1 Consumers are seeking microbiome-
approved cosmetics and body care to treat these issues. In reality, however, the regulatory landscape for microbiome-friendly product labelling and certification is fragmented; it is characterised by divergent certification systems that do not consistently adhere to stringent scientific scrutiny.
Bacteria’s innate role in the immune system Extensive research supports the notion that the bacterial community present on the skin plays an essential role in the innate immune system. The microbiome has the capability to modulate specific localized inflammatory responses and
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contribute to the stability of the skin barrier. However, the skin microbiota is distinctive
to each individual, and this significant level of inter-individual variability makes it challenging to establish a definitive definition of the core microbiota associated with ‘healthy skin’, in terms of composition and the extent of its fluctuations. Furthermore, the skin microbiota is
constantly exposed to a multitude of external factors, related to lifestyle choices and hygiene products or to pollution and medication. These factors have the potential to disrupt the equilibrium of the skin microbiota, leading to a state of dysbiosis, or changes in the makeup and functioning of the skin’s microorganisms. Additionally, the formulations of certain
skincare products and cosmetics often contain various compounds - including preservatives, antibacterial or antiseptic agents, emollient and moisturizing agents, perfumes, and surfactants - which can impact the skin microbiota. Finally, regular topical application of specific compounds such as antibacterial agents can influence and disrupt the bacterial ecology of the skin. Interestingly, while substantial research has been conducted in the surgical field, our
understanding of how cosmetic formulas specifically affect the skin microbiota remains limited. Although the effects of deodorants, antiperspirants, and cleansers on axillary flora have been documented, there is a scarcity of information regarding the impact of emollients, perfumes, and active ingredients on the microbiome. Further investigations are necessary to
elucidate the precise consequences of these cosmetic products on the delicate balance of the skin microbiota, and this was the purpose of Givaudan’s research into monitoring and measuring effects of ingredients on the skin microbiome.
In search of a common labelling system When exploring the potential use of existing labelling systems for Givaudan’s beauty products and ingredients, Givaudan’s research teams discovered that certification did not always meet the company’s required scientific standards. Furthermore, with many players now entering the market concurrently, the industry is still seeking a shared definition of what constitutes ‘microbiome-friendly’. Although there has been an increase in
September 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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