88 BIOSURFACTANTS


Figure 5: Glycolipids support the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals


formulations for tailored foaming and cleansing properties.


These benefits enable the brand owners


to gain organic growth by tapping into new and fast-growing markets for natural and sustainable personal care products. Figure 4 serves as an example of the branding value of using the rhamnolipid. In addition, Evonik anticipates that


government and environmental organizations will implement more legislation and sustainability metrics to drive a better environmental outcome. Companies often translate such regulations into sustainability targets for their long-term strategy. By utilizing glycolipids in the formulation, companies are well prepared and less dependent on potential changes in environmental regulations for surfactants. Figure 5 shows how the glycolipids support


the United Nations’ Sustainable Development Goals, which address global challenges including poverty, inequality, climate change, environmental degradation, peace, and justice for a more sustainable future.


35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0


Functional features Glycolipids are cold-processable, suitable for a wide range of personal care applications including make-up removers, facial cleansers, micellar waters, gels, shampoos and scalp treatments, foams, wet wipes, and microemulsions, as well as oral care and baby cleansing. They are highly efficient compared to


commodity surfactants even in severe conditions. The glycolipids are often used as the cleanser, foaming agent, emulsifier, solubilizer, and texture-controlling agent in the formula.


Outstanding cleansing performance Cosmetic makeups, mascaras, and sunscreens are designed to be long-lasting and waterproof. The complete removal of these cosmetic products has therefore become an important task for the consumer’s daily cleaning regimen. The cleansing data shows that both rhamnolipids and sophorolipids have excellent cleansing performance. In a comparative make-up removal test, 3%


acidic-rich sophorolipid solution outperformed a market benchmark based on PEG-6 caprylic/


Sophance LA-A■ Benchmark ■ -17% 29 24


100 80 60 40 20 0


capric glycerides. This demonstrates the superior cleansing properties of the glycolipids for both regular and waterproof mascara. The lower number of wipes demonstrates better cleansing performance (Figure 6). In another make-up removal comparison


test (Figure 7), 3% rhamnolipid solution demonstrates better cleaning properties compared to the commonly used non-ionic surfactants PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, polysorbate 20, and polyglyceryl-4 caprate. Fragrance is one of the most important


aesthetic factors contributing to a consumer’s purchasing decision in personal hygiene applications. Solubilizing the fragrance or essential oils while maintaining the formulation stability may not be an easy task for formulators. Glycolipids offer great solubilization properties for essential oils, fragrances, and flavours without interfering with the scent or the taste.


Consumer benefits Synthetic surfactants in personal care products can irritate the skin or cause allergies. Studies


Method: ARTM 11-05, 3% aqueous solution, pH 6.0


Mascara waterproof Figure 6: Mascara removal comparison test against a market benchmark PERSONAL CARE September 2023 Figure 7: Cleansing performance of Rheance One www.personalcaremagazine.com


# of wipes to remove mascara


Make-up removal (%)


Rheance One Water PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Polysorbate 20


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