UPCYCLED INGREDIENTS
Valorizing apple byproducts for cosmetics
Diana Campos Gomez, Marcus Hoeflich – Symrise Kalvin Andrieux - Antofénol
ABSTRACT
One of the main challenges the cosmetic industry faces today is to reduce its environmental footprint and to promote a sustainable production and approach to the market, taking the right actions to fight against climate change and its consequences around the globe. As a result, some trends have emerged in recent years. One such trend is upcycling. Upcycling is a process in which byproducts
or discarded materials from other industries (main process) are used as starting material for a new production process. The objective is to transform these side-streams into new products with added value. Upcycling is known as a creative solution
that contributes to the idea of circular economy. There are several examples of upcycling, coming from the food, packaging, and textile industry. The key point of upcycling is to find the appropriate technology to develop products of the best quality that fulfil the requirements for new applications in different markets. In this regard, the application of
Hyperfrequency-assisted extraction, has been studied to valorize early-stage apples, a byproduct, that comes from apple crops and in whose composition, it has been found high concentration of compounds with cosmetic interest, as it is the case of chlorogenic acid and phlorizin.1
The application of Hyperfrequency
technology in natural sources like the early- stage apples, helps to target the extraction of specific compounds using non-hazardous
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chemicals, and moreover, to reduce the extraction time and therefore, energy consumption when the process is compared to conventional methods.2
Materials and methods Early-stage apples Early-stage apples are sourced from an organic farm located in France. During the usual crop cycle, one portion of early- stage apples are harvested from the trees to release space for the better-quality fruits to continue growing in the following months, and then, get ready to go to the consumer, as shown in Figure 1. Early-stage apples are dropped on a
stretched canvas to recover them in good condition to be extracted, as shown in Figure 2.
Hyperfrequency-assisted extraction: Hyperfrequency technology consists in the
Background: Increasing relevance of valorization of food industry side- streams using environmentally friendly technologies to provide unique solutions for the cosmetic market. Methods: Hyperfrequency extraction was applied to early-stage (unripe) apples, a byproduct coming from the apple production in France. Results: Phlorizin and chlorogenic acid are found in three extracts produced via Hyperfrequency technology. One of the upcycled extracts is suitable to be used in cosmetic applications, especially for products targeting antioxidant and moisturization benefits. Conclusion: Thanks to the right parametrization of Hyperfrequency variables and then, formulation of early-stage apple extract, targeted molecules were obtained to provide a unique upcycled and natural solution ready to use by the beauty care industry.
application of even distributed waves while the extraction of a natural source, plant, bark, or fruit is taking place. Waves help to break down the vegetal cells and thereby speed up the process, in which the heat and mass flow occurs in the same direction: from the interior to the external part of the natural source. Hyperfrequency variables, like temperature
and pressure can be adapted depending on the sensitivity of the molecules that are being targeted during the extraction. When Hyperfrequency technology is applied
to early-stage apples, three systems are studied, as shown in Table 1. At the end of the process, its yield and moreover the concentration of the molecules of interest, chlorogenic acid and phlorizin, are analyzed. At the end of the extraction, the liquid extracts
April/May Flowering
June/July November
Mature apples to be sold to end consumer or to produce juices or cider
Early-stage apples to be upcycled
Figure 1: Scheme of crop cycle for apples production in France
are recovered from the reactor and then, filtered to obtain a clear liquid. For the processes involving ethanol as part of the solvent system, an extra step is added; after the filtration, the liquid is concentrated to remove any traces of ethanol.
Characterization of early-stage apple extracts ■ Molecules of interest for cosmetic applications, chlorogenic acid and phlorizin, are quantified by the corresponding HPLC methods.
September 2023 PERSONAL CARE
73
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