MARINE INGREDIENTS
of Sargassum bioferment. A daily-use O/W emulsion containing 2% Sargassum bioferment was applied daily to human skin samples acquired from abdominoplasty surgery. Untreated samples were maintained in parallel to serve as a negative control. Following a two-day treatment period, half of the tissues were exposed to 4 J/cm2
of UVA/UVB
radiation (UV irradiation), while the remaining tissues were not irradiated (‘no UV irradiation’). Some tissues were immediately fixed (Figure 5A) and examined to assess the ability of the Sargassum bioferment to prevent DNA damage. To determine if the Sargassum bioferment
plays a role in DNA damage repair, a second set of samples were examined 24 hours after UV exposure following an additional Sargassum bioferment application (Figure 5B). In each case, CPD levels were measured to assess the levels of DNA damage. The Sargassum bioferment offered
photoprotective effects. Immediately following UV exposure, tissues treated with the active had 58% less CPD than untreated controls (Figure 5A). In addition to preventing DNA damage, the Sargassum bioferment also stimulated the repair of UV-damaged DNA. Remarkably, in 24 hours, CPD levels dropped
97% with the Sargassum bioferment compared to untreated samples (Figure 5B). Taken together, these results demonstrate the ability of the Sargassum bioferment to support DNA protection and repair in response to UV light.
Regulation of microRNAs for enhanced DNA repair To determine the impact of the Sargassum bioferment on the skin, a microRNA (miRNA) profiling study was conducted in full-thickness skin model tissues. MiRNAs are essential genetic regulatory elements that ultimately affect protein levels in the cell.21 Generally, miRNA and protein levels are
inversely related, with a decrease in a particular miRNA usually increasing its target and vice versa. The expression of 105 miRNAs was measured by reverse transcription followed by amplification and quantitative polymerase chain reaction (RT-qPCR).
A
Sargassum bioferment CPD levels 0 hours post-UV irradiation
100 75 50 25 0
Sargassum bioferment:
UV: **p<0.01
58% less DNA
damage
Figure 4: Sargassum map for March 2023 courtesy of Dr. Chuanmin Hu of the Optical Oceanography Lab, University of South Florida [
https://optics.marine.usf.edu/projects/saws.html]
A comparison of treated and untreated
tissues revealed that the Sargassum bioferment downregulated four skin-relevant miRNAs in the epidermal layer (Figure 6). A reduction of these miRNAs corresponds to an increased expression of downstream genes involved in DNA repair pathways and ECM synthesis to improve the skin’s response to UV exposure. Specifically, miR-96 was reduced by 82% with
Sargassum bioferment, equating to elevated proteins for DNA repair by NER, base excision repair (BER), and double-strand break (DSB) pathways. The Sargassum bioferment further improved DNA repair capacity in the skin by reducing miR-598, a miRNA that already naturally diminishes in the skin following UV exposure.22 With 62% less miR-598, several types of
DNA repair are stimulated: NER and DSB repair via non-homologous end joining (NHEJ) or homologous recombination (HR). Additionally, the Sargassum bioferment affected miRNA-720 to facilitate heightened DNA repair responses and cell removal, known as apoptosis, in cases with irreparable DNA damage. These results demonstrate that the Sargassum bioferment bolsters DNA repair in skin cells by modulating three miRNAs. Lastly, the Sargassum bioferment reduced the
levels of miR-429 by over 50%. In doing so, the Sargassum bioferment improves ECM synthesis
B **
100 75 50 25 0
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- +
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Sargassum bioferment:
UV:
and barrier strength in the skin by regulating genes such as fibronectin and plakophilin. These data further support the Sargassum bioferment as an effective ingredient to address sun-exposed skin.
Addressing photodamage to the matrix UV-induced DNA damage negatively impacts fundamental cellular processes, including extracellular matrix (ECM) production and maintenance. Especially in the skin, maintaining the integrity of the ECM is crucial for the health and appearance of the tissue. A gene expression analysis was performed
to assess the effects of the Sargassum bioferment on ECM production in keratinocytes. The comparison of cells incubated with the Sargassum bioferment to untreated controls revealed that the expression levels of many genes were beneficially influenced, including the induction of seven genes involved in ECM formation and the reduction of two genes involved in ECM degradation. As shown in Figure 7, the Sargassum
bioferment promotes the expression of genes for ECM synthesis. The levels of COL1A1, COL5A1, COL7A1, and SPARC, genes involved in collagen production,23
were increased by
Sargassum bioferment. At the same time, the expression of a UV-
Sargassum bioferment CPD levels 24 hours post-UV irradiation
**p<0.001
43
97% less DNA
damage
***
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Figure 5: The Sargassum bioferment reduces CPD levels 0 hours (A, left) and 24 hours (B, right) after UV exposure
www.personalcaremagazine.com September 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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Concentration of CPD (Iesion/cell)
Concentration of CPD (Iesion/cell)
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