MARINE INGREDIENTS
Making waves with Sargassum ingredient
Melisa DeGroot, Rebecca Held, Paul Lawrence, Joseph Ceccoli - Biocogent
The ocean covers over 70% of the planet and includes many diverse marine environments. With some of Earth’s most extreme habitats, rich biodiversity has evolved to survive and even thrive in these dynamic high-stress environments despite extreme temperatures, pressure, oxidation, salinity, and light levels. Reportedly used over 5,000 years ago in
ancient Mesopotamia as a lip colourant, marine- based personal care ingredients are more than a temporary trend. Ocean-derived products are a prevailing staple in the industry, including emulsifiers, waxes, sensorial ingredients, and active ingredients sourced from the ocean. The industry has continuously evolved these products to meet consumer needs and expectations. Today, a growing field of scientific research helps to understand the full potential of marine materials for use in the cosmetics and personal care industry (Figure 1). Macroalgae, commonly called seaweed, are
a diverse group of over 10,000 oceanic species rich in biologically active compounds. Seaweeds are organized into three classes based on their pigmentation1
: Phaeophyceae with brown
xanthophyll pigments, Rhodophyceae with red phycoerythrin pigments, and Chlorophyceae with green chlorophyll pigments (Figure 2). Despite their varying appearances, all
seaweeds produce chlorophyll used in photosynthesis to absorb sunlight for conversion into chemical energy. In addition to pigments, macroalgae also produce secondary metabolites in response to environmental conditions, such as the presence of salt, heat, sunlight, nutrients or predators.
300 250 200 150 100 50 0
Year
Figure 1: More scientific research is published each year exploring the potential uses of marine- derived ingredients in the cosmetics industry
www.personalcaremagazine.com
These biologically active compounds include sulfated polysaccharides, phytosterols, phycobiliproteins, terpenes, and polyphenols, making seaweeds a rich repository of structurally complex molecules.2
The chemical
diversity of seaweeds provides potential for novel functional ingredients that are effective, safe, and sustainable.
DNA damage in the skin UV is a protagonist of premature skin ageing. Cumulative sun damage contributes to the appearance of wrinkles, dullness, and age spots,
among other undesirable skin morphologies. On a molecular level, UV exposure can drive redness and inflammation in the skin, causing damage to deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA), ribonucleic acids (RNAs), and proteins. UV exposure is purported to cause up to 80% of skin ageing.3
The sun delivers harsh ultraviolet (UV)
radiation, which can damage DNA by inducing mutagenic and cytotoxic DNA lesions and an associated increase in oxidative stress in cells. DNA carries the entirety of an organism’s genetic information and determines the form and function of the organism. DNA damage can cause errors in the DNA
sequence known as mutations, compromising downstream RNAs and proteins, the fundamental molecules for proper cellular activity. Often, sequence alterations contribute to cellular and tissue dysfunction with adverse effects on the individual. The DNA in the skin can be directly damaged
by the sun’s ultraviolet radiation (UVB) when the strands absorb the energy. While UVA is not directly absorbed by DNA, UVA is more abundant than UVB and can cause some of the same chemical modifications and mutations.4,5 UV energy can also generate DNA-damaging
reactive oxygen species (ROS) in the skin. Overall, the total daily burden of DNA damage for a typical mammalian cell is estimated at 10,000–1,000,000 lesions (damage sites) per
September 2023 PERSONAL CARE
41
Number of PubMed results for 'marine cosmetics'
2005 2006 2007
2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 2022
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