54 MARINE INGREDIENTS
Figure 1: UV-R photoprotection mechanism strategies in marine bacteria and phytoplankton. First line of defence: UV shield. Second line of defence: Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) scavenging. Third line of defence: UV absorbing compounds. Fourth line of defence: Cell repair
mechanisms include nucleotide excision repair (NER) or photoreactivation, among others.4 The NER pathway is a strategy used to repair DNA, damaged by intense UVR incidence. This strategy was discovered in all living being from bacteria to humans.6
In brief, the NER pathway
is a mechanism in which a damaged region of DNA is cut out and replaced by DNA synthesized using the undamaged strand as template. Biomimicry defence metabolic routes found in marine bacteria and phytoplankton with human skin make consider marine solar booster compounds perfect candidates to act avoiding or repairing the damaged tissue, acting as natural solar filters, ROS scavengers, absorptive
molecules, or damage repairers.
Marine molecules as candidates for UV-R sun protection Several adverse effects such as hyperpigmentation, burns or skin cancer are induced by UV-R. These negative impacts on skin barrier stimulates the formation of ROS, leading to a deteriorated and old skin.7
MC
Actives and Microalgae Solutions are now exploring marine bioactive molecules for use as active ingredients in skin cream formulations to combat UV-R rays adverse effects and attempt to replace artificial chemical compounds while avoiding their negative health effects and
impact on the environment. Marine phytoplankton and its associate
bacteria contain bioactive molecules to fight against UV-R, located in the cells but also in its associated microbiota. They consist of natural molecules that belong to different groups (lipids, carbohydrates, vitamins, or pigments, among others) and accomplish various functions: they act as natural sunscreen filters (NSF), ROS scavengers (RS), UV-R absorption molecules (UAM) or damage repairers (DR) (Table 1). Polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs) such as
linoleic and linolenic acids are found in a wide range of green algae including Chlorella vulgaris,
TABLE 1: MARINE MOLECULES FOUND IN PHYTOPLANKTON AND CYANOBACTERIA. COSMETIC EFFICACY AND UV-R AVOIDANCE ACTION: NATURAL SOLAR FILTERS (NSF), ROS SCAVENGERS (RS), UV-R ABSORPTION MOLECULES (UAM) OR DAMAGE REPAIRERS (DR)
Molecule group Lipids Subgroup Fatty acids Chlorophylls Carotenes
a-carotene* b-carotene*
Astaxanthin Pigments Carotenoids Xantophylls Lutein*
Zeaxanthin* Echinenone*
Scytonemin Phenols Vitamins Saccharides
Monosaccharides Disaccharides
Derived compounds
Vitamin C* Galactose*
Trehalose* Mannitol*
Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs)
Mycosporine-glycine* Asterina-330 Porphyra-334 Shinorine
* Depicts compounds detected in Marine active ingredient Haematococcus pluvialis, Scenedesmus almeriensis
Nannochloropsis oceanica Scenedesmus sp.
Calothrix sp., Scytonema sp., Synechococcus sp.
p-coumaric acid* Cyanobacteria and Chlorophyta, among others. Vitamin E*
Cyanobacteria, Chlorophyta, Bacillariophyceae, among others.
Cyanobacteria, Chlorophyta, Bacillariophyceae, among others.
Arthrospira platensis, Chlorella marina Chlorellasp. Brown algae
Gloeocaspa sp., Nostoc commun, Anabaena sp., Oscillatoria sp.
Lyngbya sp., Scenedesmus sp. Lyngbya sp., Porphyra sp.
Lyngbya sp., Chlorella minutissima
Compound Oleic acid*
Linoleic acid* Linolenic acid* Palmitoleic acid*
Examples of producers
Chlorella vulgaris, Selenastrum minutum, Nannochloropsis oculata
Chlorella vulgaris, Arthrospira platensis Dunaliella salina
Dunaliella salina, Coelastrella striolata, Scenedesmus almeriensis
Cosmetic efficacy/mechanism Stratrum comeum lipid matrix formation Ros scavenging Avoid lipid peroxidation/ ROS scavenging
Haematococcus pluvialis, Scenedesmus almeriensis ROS scavenging/ TBARS reduction/ antioxidant enzymes enhancement
Stratrum corneum lipid matrix formation/ Avoid lipid peroxidation
Stratrum corneum lipid matrix formation/ Avoid lipid peroxidation/ ROS scavenging
ROS scavenging
ROS scavenging/ decrease thymine dimer formation ROS scavenging/Collagen biosynthesis
ROS scavenging/ Collagen biosynthesis
Antioxidant/Avoid lipid peroxidation ROS scavenging
Collagen biosynthesis ROS scavenging
Antioxidant/avoid lipid peroxidation Antioxidant/avoid lipid peroxidation
Suppression of ROS production/MMPs inhibition/ collagen and elastin biosynthesis
Avoid lipid peroxidation Action NSF/DR UAM/RS UAM/RS UAM/RS UAM/NSF/DR
UAM/NSF/DR UAM/RS
UAM/RS RS/DR
RS/DR
NSF/RS/DR UAM/RS
DR UAM/RS
UAM/RS/NSF/DR UAM/RS/NSF/DR RS/NSF/DR NSF/DR
References 8 10 11 15 14
14 13
4
17 18
19 21
22 23
24
PERSONAL CARE September 2023
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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