70 UPCYCLED INGREDIENTS
User-friendly ceramide from upcycled olives
Giulia Fattorini, Stefania Zanzottera – Roelmi HPC
Ceramides are the major lipid component in the stratum corneum intercellular spaces, that form the epidermal permeability barrier.1
ABSTRACT Making
up over 50% of skin’s composition, they play a vital role in determining skin complexion and its ability in responding to environmental stresses. They are able to maintain the skin integrity
guaranteeing an overall health state and, they represent a real ‘building blocks’ that give to the skin more compactness, preventing TEWL (transepidermal water loss) and ensuring the correct need of hydration. Ceramides send signals associated to cells
apoptosis, proliferation and differentiation. In this way, there is the cell turnover harmonization in order to maintain the skin in the right conditions to react against exposome. Ceramides come from two different origins:
natural and synthetic. Natural ceramides are found in the outer layers of the skin, as well as in animals like cows and plants like soy. Synthetic ceramides (also known as pseudoceramides) are man-made; because they are free from contaminants and more stable than natural ceramides, these are more commonly used in skin care products. Ceramides are a structurally heterogeneous
and complex group of sphingolipids containing derivatives of sphingosine bases in amide linkage with a variety of fatty acids. Differences in chain length, type and extent of hydroxylation and saturation are responsible for the heterogeneity of the epidermal sphingolipids.2 Based on the form of sphingosine and the
fatty acid that binds it, the following are the different types of ceramides.2 ■ Ceramide EOS ■ Ceramide NS ■ Ceramide NP ■ Ceramide EOH ■ Ceramide AS ■ Ceramide NH ■ Ceramide AP ■ Ceramide AH ■ Ceramide OS ■ Ceramide OH These types coexist in different relationships within the skin. The most important class of ceramides, for the skin barrier building is the NP one, for this reason it is widely used in cosmetic products formulations. In some skin diseases, like atopic dermatitis,
there are reduced levels of ceramides, so it would be optimal to use cosmetics with ceramides in order to supplement the deficiency.
PERSONAL CARE September 2023
Ceramides are very famous ingredients used in cosmetics. Being a heterogeneous group of sphingolipids, they exert an important role in the construction of the stratum corneum and its barrier ability. The aim of this article is to present a new concept of upcycling ceramide, CeraFluid®, which shows high compatibility with skin components thanks to its natural delivery system from olive glycerides. It acts as biocompatible building blocks to joint skin cells, improving skin smoothness and elasticity. It helps to restore the barrier effect, protecting against dehydration, lipoperoxidation, and exposome.
Ceramides are also suitable for acne-prone skin: acne is a chronic inflammatory disease of the pilosebaceous unit with the alteration of the sebaceous lipid profile that leads to inflammation and formation of different types of acne lesions. The result is the proliferation of
Cutibacterium acnes strains and the collateral skin barrier breakdown. The reestablishment of the skin barrier is the key to fight acne skin.3 Furthermore, the most used anti-acne
topical treatments make the skin very dry, for this reason is important the use of moisturizer products with ceramides able to restore the skin barrier composition.4 The ceramides reintegration in the skin is not
so easy because they are not 100% bioavailable and they need a biocompatible delivery system to completely reach the target: the skin barrier.
Skin rebuilder from upcycled olive fractions
Based on the need to find a carrier for the ceramides, Roelmi HPC innovation laboratories have developed a dermo-mimetic active ingredient: CeraFluid. This product is an easy-to-handle fluid ceramide - with proven anti-ageing properties - developed by an eco-friendly technology from Mediterranean upcycled sources. Starting from Italian food industry, and with
the use of non-edible olive oil fractions, Roelmi HPC has ‘entrapped’ Ceramide NP into a lipidic
matrix composed by olive oil by-products. This noble matrix, composed by 100% natural olive glycerides, is a special vehicle able to improve the bioavailability and the efficacy of the pure ceramide. It improves the efficacy of ceramides into
the skin layers, becoming a perfect balance between an active ingredient and an ethical approach to food production and environment. Furthermore, this ingredient perfectly mimes the physiological functions of skin barrier, by reinforcing the horny layer keeping it moisturized over time. Plus, one of the key features of this technology is related to its low melting point: compared to the standard ceramides it is possible to formulate just at 40°C, saving time and energy costs. In addition, to assure the maximum level of
excellence, this product has the application of the SAF-e-CACY® concept, aimed at reaching maximal efficacy maintaining highest safety results, with a repetitive efficacy control on every production batch.
In vitro dossier The test was carried out in order to evaluate the capability to contrast the lipoperoxidation effects of a pro-oxidant agent after 24 hours of treatment. In particular, the assayed end- point is the malondialdehyde (MDA) content, a specific marker of oxidative stress related to the lipid component.
The dermomimetic ceramide is tested on the
barrier effect against environmental pollutants and has demonstrated the following. ■ A protective activity towards urban dust
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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