MARINE INGREDIENTS
Sun care active from marine phytoplankton
Juan Pablo De la Roche Cadavid, Pilar Águila - Microalgae Solutions & MC Actives
Ultraviolet radiation (UV-R) is one of the most critical abiotic factors for life on Earth. The sun’s energy is essential for many vital processes in all living things, but overexposure to sunlight can lead to health disorders. It is important to understand the key role of sunlight in order to develop appropriate cosmetic active ingredients that ensure high efficacy against overexposure to solar radiation. Most of the positive effects of solar radiation
are mediated via ultraviolet-B (UVB) induced production of vitamin D in skin. Additionally, UVB-induced, delayed tanning (increases melanin in skin after several days), acts as a sunscreen. Several human skin diseases, like psoriasis, vitiligo, atopic dermatitis and localized scleroderma, can be treated with solar radiation (heliotherapy) or artificial UV radiation (phototherapy). UV exposure can suppress the clinical
symptoms of multiple sclerosis independently of vitamin D synthesis. Furthermore, UV generates nitric oxide (NO), which may reduce blood pressure and generally improves cardiovascular health. UVA-induced NO may also have antimicrobial effects and furthermore, act as a neurotransmitter. Finally, UV exposure may improve mood through the release of endorphins.1 In nature, UV-R penetrates deeply in the
aquatic ecosystems and all living things at all trophic levels are potentially exposed to it. The main primary marine producers require UVR for photosynthesis: bacteria, blue-green algae, microalgae, and benthic phototrophs, which include microalgae and macroalgae, higher plants and symbiotic producers, such as zooxanthellae in corals.2 Yet UV-R has other beneficial light-driven
processes. UV photoreceptors have been described in protozoa, annelids, cnidarians, molluscs, crustaceans, and fish, suggesting that UV is essential for building living tissues and enabling vision, crucial for navigation, communication, enhanced foraging and possibly UVR avoidance.1 Despite the beneficial effects, UV-R can also
threaten living organisms, and excessive UV-R of certain wavelengths can promote damage in their molecular machineries. Such deleterious processes can alter marine ecosystems productivity, thus affecting species diversity, ecosystem stability, trophic interactions, and global biogeochemical cycles.3
Fortunately,
the evolution of living organisms provides photoprotection mechanisms that make it
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possible for life to adapt to extreme UV-R exposure.
Natural UV-R sun protection mechanisms Habitats with extreme UV-R incidence have forced phytoplankton and bacteria to develop a photoprotection mechanism that acts at four levels (Figure 1).4
The first line of defence
tries to avoid UV-R using shield by different strategies such as defence polysaccharides overproduction or using its own microstructure. As an example, the diatoms, such as
Coscinodiscus wailesii, have developed a silica frustule (silica exoskeleton) to protect against UV-R. The frustule accomplishes three main functions: i) absorption by silica, ii) diffraction thanks to the order of micro and nano-pores and iii) conversion of UV to PAR (Photosynthetic Active Radiation) by photoluminescence.5 If this first line of defence does not work,
then UV-R reaches living cells and ROS are formed causing oxidative stress. Then, phytoplankton trigger a second line of defence: the antioxidant defence line. Antioxidant enzymes such as catalase, superoxide- dismutase, or glutathione peroxidase but also antioxidant compounds like pigments or MAAs are produced in order to fight against ROS. Sometimes, this second defence line is not
ABSTRACT
Sunscreens have been gradually evolving and new photoprotective ingredients continue to be produced in response to evidence on the effect of solar radiation on the skin and the undisputed evidence of the environmental impact of certain components of sunscreen products affecting the fauna and flora of aquatic ecosystems. A new ingredient from marine phytoplankton and associated bacteria is emerging as a revolutionary marine active ingredient committed to high photoprotective efficacy against UV-R rays while leaving no environmental footprint on aquatic ecosystems.
enough and intense UV-R can cause oxidative damage, forcing organisms to overproduce certain kind of photoprotective molecules, able to absorb UV-R, establishing the third line of defence. If that line is not enough, DNA and proteins
are damaged leading to severe consequences for the organisms. Marine organisms have a series of mechanisms that help to replace the damage proteins by synthetizing new ones and to repair DNA: fourth line of defence. Those
September 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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