Volume 24 Issue 8
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CONTENTS
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REGULARS 5
News Editor’s Comment
7 Cover Story: Lipoid Kosmetik 9
98 Formulations Get inspiration for your next project with a selection of prototype formulations from the world’s leading ingredient suppliers
FEATURES 16 Interview: Trends, blends and the
metaverse Arnita Wofford is the global marketing and technical director for beauty & personal care at Univar Solutions, the Illinois, USA-headquartered chemical and ingredients distributor and provider of value- added services. Here, Paris-based Arnita shares her extensive industry insight on the latest personal care trends
21 Catching a cosmetics wave in
Long Beach Angie Inouye, Chair of the 2023 California Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) Suppliers’ Day exhibition and conference previews this year’s show at the Long Beach Convention Centre. Cali SCC is a biennial event and delivers over 250 exhibitors under one roof, including raw material suppliers, contract manufacturers, equipment manufacturers, testing companies and skilled formulation experts, presenting their latest products and technologies
29 Beneficial skin properties of olive
tree leaves Sara Gonçalves and Isabel Gaivão of the University of Trás-os-Montes and Alto Douro, Portugal discuss a study that aims to present a method for easy preparation of an olive tree leaves tincture that can be incorporated into a cosmetic product and reproduced in a domestic environment
33 Is the skin microbiome a cul-de-sac? The cosmetic and personal care industry might have entered a cul-de-sac with the skin microbiome, says Harald van der Hoeven of CLR. Our lack of understanding of the skin microbiome to skin relationship has put us in a position where the most we can claim about a product is that it is ‘microbiome-friendly’
37 Microbiome-friendly ingredient
certification Givaudan Active Beauty has developed the B-Biome Score, a standardized, scientifically rigorous certification process for cosmetic ingredients and products that are harmonious with the skin microbiome
41 Making waves with Sargassum
ingredient Biocogent has developed a marine ingredient that supports the skin for applications in pre- and post- sun care products and as part of protective anti- pollution and anti-ageing regimens, exemplifying what is possible when marine species and biotechnology are combined to manufacture potent, biofunctional materials
47 Extremophile microalgae for skin
rejuvenation Cobiosa has harnessed Dunaliella salina, a microalgae with unique adaptability and properties, for its potential as an eco-friendly and effective active ingredient in the cosmetics industry. Efficacy studies have demonstrated its significant antioxidant and anti-collagenase activities
53 Sun care active from marine
phytoplankton Microalgae Solutions & MC Actives have developed a new active ingredient from marine phytoplankton and associated bacteria that preliminary studies show has high photoprotective efficacy against UV-R rays while leaving no environmental footprint on aquatic ecosystems
59 Glucosyl naringin: skin-reviving solution Hayashibara discusses an upcycled ingredient derived from inedible citrus fruit which is readily biodegradable and produced by sustainable manufacturing. In vitro studies confirmed the enhancement of elastin production and fibre formation, indicating the effects on both the quantity and the quality of elastin
65 How the wellness trend is impacting
formulation Croda takes a deep dive into the wellness trend, the main factors driving this transformation, the key elements of wellness-focused products and routines, and the impact this trend has on consumer choices. In addition, the article explores how this is influencing cosmetic innovation and formulators in their development work
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September 2023 PERSONAL CARE 70 User-friendly ceramide from
upcycled olives Roelmi HPC presents a new concept of an upcycled ceramide, which shows high compatibility with skin components thanks to its natural delivery system from olive glycerides
73 Valorizing apple byproducts for
cosmetics Symrise discusses the benefits of Hyperfrequency technology for the extraction of specific compounds using non-hazardous chemicals to reduce the extraction time and, therefore, energy consumption when the process is compared to conventional methods
77 Waste not, want not: upcycled ingredients The Upcycled Beauty Company unveils a ‘manifesto’ for how the personal care industry can thrive from waste products to produce raw materials all the way through to packaging. The UK company argues the industry has the technology and the innovators for zero-waste beauty to become the norm, it just needs the motivation
83 Renewing elasticity to fight skin sagging Gattefossé has developed a 100% natural origin active ingredient capable of limiting the impact of gravity on the lower face and, therefore, combating skin sagging
86 Sustainable glycolipids for
personal care The global beauty and personal care market has shown a keen interest in surfactants with higher naturality and mildness claims. These natural surfactants are often delivered by biotechnologies from three categories: partially bio-based surfactants, fully bio-based surfactants, and biosurfactants, as Evonik explains
92 Unlocking the acne microbiome mystery
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