MARINE INGREDIENTS
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Radiance scale
Crow's feet wrinkle scale
Figure 6: Expert scales. Different skin parameters are scored between Grade 1 and Grade 5
In vitro test: Anti-oxidant and extracellular matrix protection Several efficacy studies have been conducted to assess the properties of these microalgae, including global antioxidant activity and anti- collagenase activity. The general oxidation assay is employed to evaluate the ability of antioxidants to transfer electrons and reduce the oxidized substance, specifically the cationic radical. For the general oxidation test, an activated
cationic radical is utilized as an electron donor in the INVITOOLS commercial kit (REF. IVT2019P05. Lot Nº, P01_22.000), following the manufacturer’s instructions. In each well, 150 μl of the substrate is dispensed, followed by the addition of 50 μl of the positive control and the sample/s. As a negative control, 50 μl of diluent is added. Each condition is tested in triplicate. After a 30-minute incubation at 25°C, the
spectrophotometer reading is taken at 410 nm to measure the extent of the reaction. This reading provides insights into the antioxidant activity of the microalgae extract, allowing for the assessment of its potential efficacy in combating oxidative stress. The sample (IVL_230131_CBA_2) had
a statistically significant 15.70% reduction compared to the oxidation control (p<0.001), as shown in Figure 2. The efficacy of inhibiting the anti-collagenase
enzyme was also evaluated as part of the study. Collagen plays a vital role in maintaining the skin’s appearance, and its degradation is associated with the formation of wrinkles. Therefore, understanding the activity of enzymes that degrade collagen, such as collagenase, is crucial from a cosmetic perspective. The test for anti-collagenase activity was conducted using the INVITOOLS commercial
kit (REF. IVT2019P04. Lot Nº, P04_22.000), following the manufacturer’s instructions. In each well, 5 μl of the enzyme was dispensed, followed by the addition of 5 μl of the positive control (50000 μl/ml EDTA solution) and the sample/s. As a negative control, 5 μl of reaction buffer was added. Each condition was tested in triplicate. After a 15-minute incubation at 37°C, 10 μl
of the substrate was added, and the mixture was further incubated for 45 minutes at 37°C. Subsequently, 10 μl of developer solutions 1 and 2 were added, followed by a 15-minute incubation at 95°C. Finally, 50 μl of developer solution 3 was added, and the supernatants were transferred to a 96-well plate for spectrophotometer reading at 570 nm. The measurements obtained at 570nm
provide insights into the ability of the microalgae extract to inhibit collagenase activity. This assessment is crucial in understanding the
www.personalcaremagazine.com
September 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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