UPCYCLED INGREDIENTS
Glucosyl naringin: skin-reviving solution
Yui Sunada, Ami Chikatomo, Kohta Kanazawa, Kanako Matsumoto, Yohsuke Matsumoto, Yuko Takai, Jiro Kishimoto – Hayashibara
The global market for anti-ageing reached $62.6 billion in 2021 and is projected to grow to $93.1 billion by 2027.1
The market is
expected to continue growing as disposable incomes increase, people become more aware of healthier lifestyles, life expectancy increases, and the ageing population grows. From this perspective, wellbeing can be considered to be the desire of all people to become healthy in mind and body, while aesthetically viewed, it is a concept that leads to well ageing: the idea that people become more attractive and graceful as they age. Furthermore, the concept of holistic beauty
is gaining attention due to the growing need for natural and clean products with less environmental impact. For consumers who wish to stay youthful and attractive without harming the environment and society, holistic well ageing may be the essential concept for today.
Upcycled glycosylated naringin active for well ageing Responding to these market needs, the upcycled ingredient Glucosyl Naringin (INCI name: Glucosyl Naringin and Naringin), scientifically proven to improve skin elasticity, was launched. The aglycon naringin is a type of polyphenol derived from citruses, such as grapefruit and bergamot, known to have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects.2 However, extremely low water solubility was the obstacle to its application in personal care products. Hayashibara, a Japanese saccharide
manufacturer with a 140-year history, has a fundamental policy of sustainable material procurement and production, developed glucosyl naringin active and successfully increased its water solubility by more than 6,000 times over naringin. Naringin and glucose are combined by the
company’s proprietary enzyme technology, resulting in a readily biodegradable compound. Moreover, the raw material of naringin is plant- derived waste, such as thinned or naturally fallen fruit. The breakthrough of increasing water
solubility also revealed biological activity to the skin and the effect on skin elasticity. This efficacy is suggested to be essential for a youthful appearance, since the negative correlation between wrinkle depth and skin elasticity is reported.3
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Components related to skin elasticity In the three layers of skin: epidermis, dermis, and hypodermis, the dermis is mainly responsible for skin elasticity. The dermis consists of extracellular matrix (ECM) and fibroblast, which provides a flexible and elastic
tropoelastin (elastin monomer) Deposit Microfibrils
Self-assemble Cross-link by LOX
structure providing the strength to withstand mechanical stimulation. The ECM is composed of fibrous
components, such as collagen and elastin fibres, and a matrix including glycoproteins and proteoglycans. Collagen fibres provide tensile strength, while elastin fibres afford extensibility and reversible recoil.
The crucial role of elastin fibres Collagen fibres are indeed important, as we see various active ingredients in the market, while elastin fibres seem little known to consumers, despite their crucial role in skin elasticity. Elastin fibres are principally composed of elastin and elastin-associated microfibrils.4 Elastin is an insoluble polymer of 60-70
Flexible
Elastin fibres
Figure 1: Process of elastin fibre formation
kDa tropoelastin monomers. Tropoelastin is an extremely extensible molecule, which self-assembles into elastin. It is cross-linked through the activity of lysil oxidase (LOX), which is a copper-requiring enzyme and combined with microfibrils to form elastin fibres.5 Microfibrils serve as a scaffold to aid the correct alignment of elastin fibres (Figure 1).4
September 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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