80 UPCYCLED INGREDIENTS
are starting to look at this, but the offering is not to the same level or sophistication as actives are. To help close the circularity gap, we need to create 100% zero-waste beauty with focus on large-scale deployment of sustainable production, investing in cleaner, low-carbon and material-efficient technologies, while curbing virgin material demands and drastically reducing material consumption.17 Secondly, all parts of the personal care
industry need to work collaboratively to create upcycled beauty. That includes packaging focussing on the three pillars of reducing, reusing and refilling, using technologies such as biocontributing mycelium, and looking at how products and packaging impact the environment once they have been used. While many brands say their packaging is
recyclable or made from recycled materials, the fact is recycling rates are going down in the US, now at just five to six percent in 2021 compared to 9.5% in 2014.18
Plus, some recycling types
are so niche many go to landfill through lack of knowledge. We need every part of the industry, from
marketing and research and development to end-of-life to work together to create a completely circular system.
Conclusion The world is changing and that creates difficulties for those happy to stay still. Yet we are enthused by the challenge. Sustainability is a trend on everyone’s radar and we believe the upcycled movement is here to stay. Yet work still needs to be done to create
fully zero-waste beauty products, as does the personal care sector’s mentality on product availability. We need to be looking at what by- product or waste resources are locally available and how we can make them work, rather than deciding on a feedstock first and taking it in its primary form. If you only want to create cosmetics from a rare upcycled plant it is going to be difficult, but if you are looking at what is around you it is much easier to implement. We want the industry to think differently
about so-called rubbish. This is not exclusive to the personal care sector. Spreading knowledge to manufacturers that their waste has value is also key to closing the circle. Considering the environment can lead to making money. Although sustainability is not the biggest
driver in mass markets the tide is changing. With multi-national organisations like Beiersdorf backing a face cream made from re-used coffee grounds, this is the start of a snowball effect. It will keep going. Douglas McMaster, the chef and owner
of zero-waste restaurant Silo, London, says waste is “a failure of the imagination.”19
So, let
us imagine. We have the technology, we have the innovators, we just need the motivation for zero-waste beauty to become the norm.
References 1. Provenance. Skin Deep Beauty – Shopper expectations and the truth behind sustainability claims. 2022. https://info.
provenance.org/skin-deep-beauty 2. Beauty Matter. Lignopure brings new
PERSONAL CARE September 2023 PC
upcycled ingredient to market. 3 January 2023.
https://beautymatter.com/articles/ lignopure-brings-new-upcycled-ingredient- to-market
3. The Upcycled Beauty Company. Blueberry Crush™ - 2 grades of gentle exfoliants for face & body care. https://www.upcycledbeauty. com/blueberry-crush
4. Active Concepts. PhytoCycle™ Orange.
https://activeconceptsllc.com/products/ phytocycle-orange/
5. ReFED. Drawdown Update Affirms Reducing Food Waste as a Leading Solution to Climate Change. 5 July 2022.
https://refed.org/ articles/drawdown-update-affirms-reducing- food-waste-as-a-leading-solution-to- climate-change/
6. WWF Food Practice. Driven to waste: Global Food Loss on Farms report summary. July 2021.
https://wwfint.awsassets.panda.org/ downloads/driven_to_waste_summary.pdf
7. Drawdown. Reduced Food Waste. https://
drawdown.org/solutions/reduced-food- waste
8. The Guardian. Where does your plastic go? Global investigation reveals America’s dirty secret. 17 June 2019. https://www.
theguardian.com/us-news/2019/jun/17/ recycled-plastic-america-global-crisis
9. OECD Joint Working Party on Trade and Environment. International Trade And Circular Economy – Policy Alignment. 5 January 2021.
https://www.oecd.org/officialdocuments/ publicdisplaydocumentpdf/?cote=COM/ TAD/ENV/JWPTE(2020)2/ FINAL&docLanguage=En
10. EurActiv. Parliament backs export ban on all waste destined for disposal. 18 January 2023.
https://www.euractiv.com/section/ energy-environment/news/parliament- backs-export-ban-on-all-waste-destined- for-disposal/
11. Palmolive. Wake Up! To The Fragrance Of Upcycled Ingredients.
https://www.palmolive.
co.uk/palmolive-up
12. Premium Beauty News. Nivea adds recycled coffee grounds to latest face cream. 25 October 2022. https://www.
premiumbeautynews.com/en/nivea-adds- recycled-coffee-grounds,21021
13. Mavon A et al. A Nordic Cloudberry Case Study. Cosmetics & Toiletries. January 2023. https://cosmeticsandtoiletries.
texterity.com/cosmeticsandtoiletries/ january_2023/MobilePagedArticle. action?articleId=1847049&app= false#articleId1847049
14. Innovationsfonden. Project PlantPro – Accelerating an efficient green consumer transition. January 2023. https://
auinstallation32.cs.au.dk/fileadmin/ MGMT/Subsites/Projekter/PlantPro/ WP_5.4_Report_on_benchmark_ survey_2021-2022_16-12-2022.pdf
15.
Upcycledfood.org. Upcycled Certified™ Program Overview. https://www.
upcycledfood.org/overview-1
16. Cosmetics Design USA. Mentality major barrier to upcycling: NYSCC chair’s thoughts on upcycled cosmetic ingredients. 18 February 2022. https://www.
cosmeticsdesign.com/Article/2022/02/18/ NYSCC-chair-s-thoughts-on-upcycled- cosmetic-ingredients
17. Circle Economy. The Circularity Gap Report 2023.
https://www.circularity-gap.world/
18. Greenpeace. Circular Claims Fall Flat Again. 24 October 2022.
https://www.greenpeace. org/usa/reports/circular-claims-fall-flat- again/
19. TED Talks. Waste is a failure of the imagination. Douglas McMaster. https://www.
ted.com/talks/douglas_mcmaster_waste_ is_a_failure_of_the_imagination
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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