BIOSURFACTANTS
have shown that the use of biosurfactants in cleansing or personal care products can be beneficial to individuals, as biosurfactants are significantly milder on the skin and scalp. They have excellent moisturizing properties,
enable the skin’s natural lipid retention, and are skin-microbe friendly. The improved biocompatibility of biosurfactants is partly due to the similarity of their chemical components – sugars, lipids, and proteins – to the molecules found in our own skin. In terms of skin mildness, a red blood
cell test has been conducted on both the rhamnolipid and acidic-rich sophorolipid (Figure 8). The glycolipids’ mildness data outperformed the benchmarks including cocamidopropyl betaine and sodium cocoamphoacetate, which are used in sensitive facial cleansers. In addition to their excellent skin and scalp
compatibility as well as cleansing performance, they offer pleasant sensory benefits, providing dense and creamy foam that rinses easily from the skin. Foam structure and kinetics analysis were conducted on the rhamnolipid, sodium laureth sulfate, coco-glucoside, cocamidopropyl betaine, and sodium cocoyl glutamate (Figure 9), and the result demonstrated the comparable foaming ability with consumer-preferred foam quality of rhamnolipids.
Conclusion Early generations of biosurfactants faced several manufacturing challenges relating to raw material sourcing and processing that constricted their green credentials and functionalities. As a result, only a few bio-based surfactants were able to generate satisfying foaming and cleansing properties comparable to the traditional surfactants. Evonik is a global specialty chemical
company that produces high-quality surfactants for modern cleaning systems by utilizing
DFA method, c=12%, pH 6.0
FOAM STRUCTURE ANALYSIS Rheance One
89
Sophance LA-A■ Rheance One ■ Sodium Laureth Sulfate ■ Disod./Sod. Cocoyl Glutamate ■ Cocamidopropyl Betaine ■ Sodium Cocoamphoacetate ■ Coco-Glucoside ■
1000 100 10 1
0.1 Figure 8: Red blood cell test data demonstrated the mildness of glycolipids
material expertise and exceptional consumer insights. Aiming for success in the highly attractive personal care market, the company has devoted more than five years with scientists across Germany, China, and Slovakia to develop glycolipids with enhanced environmental benefits. This outstanding biotechnology is supported by the foundation of knowledge in processing engineering, interfacial chemistry, and applied sciences. Now, with Evonik’s dedication to
commercializing advanced biosurfactants, the industry can gradually replace fossil- based chemicals along with each individual brand’s sustainability journey. This will drive a significant sustainability movement in optimizing the global carbon footprint and greenhouse gas emissions for surfactant-rich personal care products. As sustainability becomes the central
element within the company’s purpose of ‘Leading Beyond Chemistry’, Evonik provides innovative solutions that help to make our lives more sustainable, healthy, and comfortable. To strengthen our position as a leading provider of sustainable solutions, we strive to continuously
empower our customers by expanding our sustainable portfolio of glycolipids and collaborating to drive organic growth with our branding partners.
References 1. Schilling K, Zessner M. Foam in the aquatic environment. Water Research. 2011; 45(15):4355-66
2. Seweryn A. Interactions between surfactants and the skin – Theory and practice. Advances in Colloid and Interface Science. 2018; 256(s1):242-255
3. Kleckner V, Kosaric N. Biosurfactants for cosmetics. In: Biosurfactants: Production, Properties, Applications (Kosaric N, ed.). 1993, pp. 329–389. Marcel Dekker, New York.
4. Muneer A, QaziQinhong W, Zongjie Da. Sophorolipids bioproduction in the yeast Starmerella bombicola: Current trends and perspectives. Bioresource Technology. 2022; 346 (2022) 126593
5. Moldes AB et al. Synthetic and Bio-Derived Surfactants Versus Microbial Biosurfactants in the Cosmetic Industry: An Overview. Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2021 Mar; 22(5): 2371
SITA, c=0.5%, T=30˚C, Water ˜10˚dH, 1500 rpm, pH 6.0 FOAM KINETICS SLES CAPB
1050 850 650 450 250 50
10
20 30 40 50 60 70 80 Foaming Intervals (sec)
■ Rheance One ■ SLES ■ Coco-Glucoside ■ CAPB ■ Dis./Sod. Cocoyl Glutamate
Figure 9: Pleasant sensory benefits by foam quality Rheance One combines a high foaming power with a dense and creamy foam structure.
www.personalcaremagazine.com September 2023 PERSONAL CARE
Basically nonirritant
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irritant
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