56 MARINE INGREDIENTS


bacteria and phytoplankton to create a biodegradable and multifunctional natural marine ingredient that integrates sunscreen, ROS scavenger, absorbing molecules, and tissue repair actions. Based on a blend of marine bioactive


molecules, this novel marine ingredient provides synergistic UV-R protection. A phytoplankton holobiont composed by extremophile species, can produce these molecules due to the adaptation to high sunlight radiation and desiccation. The mechanism of action of this active ingredient integrates a combination of UV-R protective and UV-R repairer marine molecules (Figure 2). Preliminary results of UV-Vis spectroscopy


analysis demonstrated an outstanding wavelength absorption capacity of the 5% marine active ingredient to protect against UVA and UVB rays. In addition, the ingredient showed a weak, but remarkable absorbance against blue light (Figure 3). Antioxidant capacity was measured by an


ABTS assay, which demonstrated an impressive antioxidant effect against the ROS by 39% ±1% and 49% ±1% using marine active ingredient at 3% and 5% respectively (Figure 4).


Why should we care about finding new natural active ingredients for sunscreens? The forecast that the global sunscreen market will reach $24.4 billion by 2029 demonstrates the growing awareness of the harmful effects of sunlight. Sunscreens have been gradually evolving, and new photoprotective ingredients continue to be produced in response to growing scientific evidence on the effect of solar radiation on the skin and to the undisputed evidence of the environmental impact of certain components of sunscreen products affecting the fauna and flora of aquatic ecosystems.25 Sunscreens are among the many emerging


pollutants that enter the sea and cause adverse ecological effects. In recent years, the environmental effects of some ingredients of sunscreens products once they are released into the aquatic environment has been


120 100 80 60 40 20 0


C+ C-


+39% *


+49% *


Photoprotective Marine active 3%


Figure 4: Antioxidant capacity of marine active ingredient using ABTS assay


discussed by the scientific community. The increase in tourism associated with the sun and coast has increased the presence of these products in the marine environment and, consequently, the concern about the potential dangers to marine ecology, which are mainly caused by the UV chemical filters, both organic and inorganic, present in the sunscreens.26 Recent studies suggest that sunscreens in


coastal waters may produce deleterious effects in ecosystems and marine organism (Table 2). There is an urgent need to understand to what extent these organisms are affected by those chemicals. For example, marine bacteria are crucial in the major biogeochemical cycles, phytoplankton and zooplankton constitutes the first link of the food chain and coral reef are one of the most important marine ecosystems. Organic UV filters have been found


in several aquatic organisms (marine invertebrates, fish, marine mammals, aquatic birds); often they were detected at significantly high concentrations. Overall, these data show that some organic UV filters can bioaccumulate in the muscle and lipids of these organisms


TABLE 2: IMPACT OF CERTAIN UV SUNSCREEN COMPONENTS ON MARINE ORGANISMS AND ECOSYSTEMS27,28,29,30,31,32,33,34


Marine Organisms


Marine bacteria (27 species)


Phytoplankton Coral Reef Zooplankton


Seagrass (Posidonia oceanica)


Invertebrate (Anemones, flatworms)


Turtle (Caretta caretta)


Type of UV sunscreen compound Octinoxate and Oxybenzone


Benzophehone 3 (BZ-3), 4-methylbenzylidene; camphor (4-BC), TiO2


and ZnO.


Octisalate, homosalate, octocrylene, and oxybenzone


ZnO Organic and inorganic filters


Homosalate, oxybenzone, octocrylene, and Octisalate, Avobenzone


Benzophenone-3 PERSONAL CARE September 2023


Coral bleaching Oxidative stress


Oxidative stress and low Chlorophyll content


Growth inhibition


Inflammation, oxidative stress, abnormal hormonal activity


29, 30 31


32 33 34 Detrimental effect Growth inhibition Growth inhibition Reference 27 28


and are likely to enter marine food chains.35 Inorganic UV filters like Nano TiO2


can undergo photocatalitic reactions when exposed to ultraviolet radiation, with the generation of ROS such as O2


-; .OH; H2 O2 O2 and ZnO . The


normal recreational activities in coastal resorts can result in the production of significant amount of H2


and consequent damage to


or death of marine coastal phytoplankton and bacteria.34 The cosmetics industry faces an


inescapable sustainability challenge. MC Active and Microalgae Solutions are committed to the development of revolutionary marine actives, with high UV-R photoprotection efficacy but at the same time leaving no environmental footprint in aquatic ecosystems.


Conclusion The biomimic defence metabolic pathways found in marine bacteria and phytoplankton with human skin make marine UV-R photoprotective compounds perfect candidates to act in preventing or repairing damaged tissue, acting as natural sunscreens, ROS scavengers, absorbing molecules, or damage repairers. Based on a blend of marine bioactive


molecules, we are working to create a revolutionary marine ingredient that provides synergistic UV-R protection. A phytoplankton holobiont composed of extremophilic phytoplankton species and their bacterial microbiota can produce these molecules by adapting to high solar radiation and desiccation. Preliminary results demonstrated an outstanding wavelength absorption and antioxidant capacity of this marine active ingredient to protect against UVA and UVB rays. We need to address the development of natural photoprotective ingredients with high UV-R photoprotective efficacy but which at the same time do not leave an environmental footprint in aquatic ecosystems.


References to this article are available at: http://bit.ly/3q9aR0H


www.personalcaremagazine.com


Photoprotective Marine active 5%


PC


ABTS scavenging activity (%)


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