84 ANTI-AGEING
Their synthesis by dermal fibroblasts follows a multifaceted process named elastogenesis. This results in the combination of molecules
of elastin and microfibrils under the intercession of a wide array of microfibril-associated proteins. Elastogenesis takes place during the early stages of foetal development and reaches a peak at puberty. In adult skin, elastic fibres regenerate inadequately and the elastic capital declines with age. External ageing is also responsible for the
impairment of the elastic fibres. In photo-exposed skin, an accumulation of abnormally amorphous elastin, called solar elastosis is observed as well as a complete disorganization of the elastic fibres network. This is mainly due to the activation of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). Thus, during ageing and under environmental
stress, the amount of functional elastic fibres is reduced, and the biomechanical functions of the skin are deeply disturbed. It manifests clinically by a loss of skin elasticity. Associated with the down pressure exerted
by gravity on the skin, it leads to skin sagging and the formation of deep vertical wrinkles. Therefore, reinforcing the skin’s elastic potential appears to be the foremost strategy to correct the clinical signs of skin sagging.
EleVastin ingredient An ingredient developed by Gattefossé’s laboratories confirmed its efficacy in boosting key players in the maintenance of functional elastic fibres while preventing their degradation. The efficacy of EleVastin has been demonstrated following a comprehensive process, using in vitro models of increasing complexity. On the one hand, it boosts the synthesis of
three key proteins for the assembly of functional elastic fibres: elastin, fibrillin1 and fibulin5 are respectively boosted by +43%, +23% and +62% when it is used at 0.1% on a monolayer culture of dermal fibroblasts. On the other hand, the elastic fibres are
protected from degradation. It inhibits the proteolytic activity of MMP12 with a dose- dependent effect. These results were confirmed on a more complex 3D bio-engineered skin model (Figure 1). Through this mechanism of action, it ensures
an increase of the density of elastic fibres coupled with an augmented and functional
CONTROL UNTREATED Figure 1: Expression of elastin in a 3D model of skin equivalent
skin elasticity. These last outcomes have been obtained using a spheroid model, more relevant to mimic in vitro an elastic tissue. Spheroids were treated with the active at 0.1%
and analyzed using second harmonic generation microscopy (SHGM) and atomic force microscopy (AFM). Researchers uncovered that the newly synthesized elastic fibres were numerous and functional in the treated spheroids, thus ensuring the recovery of tissue elasticity (Figure 2). This research work was released at the 31st
IFSCC Congress 2020 and published in Journal of Investigative Dermatology in 2019.5
Lower face is freed from gravity A clinical trial was set up, involving 37 volunteers with mature skin and clinical signs of facial sagging. The panelists applied a cream containing 1% of the active on their face twice daily. The active cream was also applied on one
forearm in comparison to a placebo cream on the second one. Various assessment techniques have been implemented to evaluate the biomechanical properties of the skin and the effects observed on skin sagging. Cutometry measurements showed a
significant increase of the skin elasticity versus the placebo (+12%). Also, facial contours were better defined (5% volume of facial oval), while deep vertical wrinkles were visibly reduced (Figure 3). In addition, wrinkles on the cheeks
ELEVASTIN 0.1%
were significantly improved (18% length / 21% volume), as analysis of 3D acquisitions reveals. Beyond these methods, an original study
design was adopted to measure the impact of gravity on facial morphology. Panelists were placed in two positions: a sitting position in which the effects of gravity on the visibility of ageing signs are maximal and a supine position modeling a lower gravity level. A clinical scoring was performed by a beautician, in each position. Two criteria were evaluated: the visibility of the nasogenian folds and the visibility of the jowls. The scores obtained on D0 before treatment in the supine position is used as a reference data (minimal gravity level). These scores were then compared to those
obtained in the sitting positions: on the one hand at D0, before treatment to measure the initial impact of gravity (+32%) and on the other hand at the end of the study after treatment to assess the final impact of gravity (+16%). In other words, the method enables to
measure the impact of gravity on the visibility of the signs of ageing, linked to the change of position, before and after treatment. Therefore, the ingredient was proven to reduce the impact of gravity by -49% (Figure 4). Clinical signs of facial sagging are significantly
less visible, even in sitting position where gravity is important. Pictures obtained in sitting position at the end of the study are finally closer to pictures obtained with lesser gravity level (in supine position).
+125% ***
*** p<0.001 Figure 2: Density of elastic fibres in spheroids, measured by SHGM PERSONAL CARE September 2023
100% natural origin content Traditional plants used for therapeutic or culinary purposes are an unlimited source of inspiration. One of these plants, Murraya koenigii, has been used for hundreds of years in ayurvedic medicine and in cuisine. It originates from the Indian sub-continent, and it is now widely cultivated in territories bordering the Indian ocean. In association with a local, long-time
partner, leafy stems of the Murraya koenigii tree are manually harvested from fertilizer- free plots in the preserved environment of La Reunion island. Perfect traceability is ensured from the tree to Gattefossé laboratories. A complex pool of synergistic
phytomolecules, e.g, flavonoids, phenolic acids
www.personalcaremagazine.com CONTROL UNTREATED ELEVASTIN 0.1%
**** p<0.0001
ELASTIN / DAPI
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