BIOSURFACTANTS As a pioneer of glycolipid technologies,
Evonik has developed a portfolio of next- generation glycolipids that meet the need for biosurfactants with the highest standards of sustainability, gentleness, and functionality. Years of research in biotechnology, process engineering, and application technology have enabled the industrial-scale production of these high-quality glycolipids for the first time.
Glycolipids: sophorolipids and rhamnolipids The two most commonly used glycolipid biosurfactants for personal care, household, and institutional cleansers, are sophorolipids and rhamnolipids.
1. Sophorolipids – the first glycolipids in cosmetics applications Sophorolipids are produced by yeasts and occur naturally in materials such as bumblebee honey. Certain yeasts, such as Candida bombicola, can be used to produce sophorolipids industrially from sugar and rapeseed oil as raw materials. Scientists recognized the potential of these
molecules as detergents in the late 1980s but failed to develop a commercially viable process for their production. Sophorolipids have a complex chemical structure and their synthesis has generally been a challenging task. This is due to the hydrophilic carbohydrate component which is very difficult to combine with the lipophilic part of the molecule. Enzymes in these microorganisms convert
sugar and rapeseed oil into sophorolipids in a series of enzyme-catalyzed steps. In theory, all that remains is to isolate the product, but this has proven difficult for many cosmetic ingredient manufacturers on an industrial scale. More recently, extensive new research and process optimization in the production, purification, and extraction of sophorolipids has led to greater availability of these substances. The sophorolipids are known for their
mildness to the eyes, skin, and mucous membranes. They are cold-processable and can be easily added to formulations to tailor foaming and cleansing properties.
2. Rhamnolipids – the next generation in cosmetic applications Rhamnolipids are a type of glycolipid consisting of units of the monosaccharide rhamnose
87
Figure 2: The natural fermentation process for glycolipids TABLE 1: ENVIRONMENTAL COMPATIBILITY OF RHEANCE ONE
Biodegradability (aerobic, 28d)
SLES (1EO)1 APG C10-161
Betain (CAPB)1
Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate1
Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate1
Rheance One
100% 88%
92% 86% 94% 100%3
Biodegradability (aerobic)
Yes2 Yes2
80-90% (60d)
n.a. n.a. 100% (41d)4
Acute Daphnia EC50, mg/I
7.2 7
6.5 2.8 49 >200
covalently linked to fatty acids. In nature, they are produced naturally by Pseudomonas aerginosa in oily media, allowing the micro- organism to use them as a food source. Rhamnolipids are made via a non-
pathogenic microorganism, using only sugar as a raw material, and are produced in a carbon- optimized fermentation process. Rhamnolipids are biodegradable with greatly improved cleansing abilities. They are mild to the skin and are much more compatible with aquatic organisms than conventional surfactants. In addition to outstanding solubilization
and cleansing properties, rhamnolipids have exceptional foaming properties even in hard water and are gentle on the skin. As foam quality is perceived by consumers
as a sign of cleansing power, the long-lasting foam of rhamnolipids is perfectly suited for shampoos and shower gels, where a creamy lather is seen as a sign of gentle care.
Chronic Daphnia NOEC, mg/I
0.18 1
0.32 4 0.22 11.6 (EC10) Source: 1. ECHA data 2. anaerobic degradable acc. to DID ist 3. OECD 301F 4. OECD 311 n.a. = not available
Why switch to glycolipids? There are several valid reasons for switching from petrochemical-based surfactants to glycolipid-based biosurfactants. Data are demonstrated by Evonik’s glycolipids under the tradenames of Rheance® One (hereafter, the rhamnolipid) and Sophance® LA-A (hereafter, the acidic-rich sophorolipid) to showcase the efficacy.
Positive environmental impact The glycolipids are sourced from renewable feedstocks produced by sustainable practices with traceability. They are high- purity compounds with nature-identical molecular structures that show significantly lower toxicity to aquatic organisms than conventional surfactants and a low potential for bioaccumulation in natural freshwater and marine ecosystems. For example, the rhamnolipid is considered 100% biodegradable in aerobic systems according to an OECD 301 F biodegradability study (Table 1).
Branding values Biosurfactants fulfil all the requirements placed on modern surfactants. They have good cleaning properties, are mild to the skin, and are readily biodegradable. At the same time, they are even gentler on aquatic organisms and allow manufacturers to reduce their carbon footprint. While their organic quality, sustainability
Figure 4: Branding examples of Rheance One glycolipids
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profile, and excellent functional and skin properties make these biosurfactants highly attractive to consumers, cosmetic manufacturers also benefit from the compounds’ versatility in gentle personal care
September 2023 PERSONAL CARE Algae EC50, mg/I Algae NOEC, mg/I 27
12.5 1.5
61 32.5 >200
0.93 4.15
0.3 22 11.25 >200
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