MARINE INGREDIENTS
Extremophile microalgae for skin rejuvenation
Sofía Pérez-Tomé, Cristina Thiebaut – Cobiosa
In the last ten years, the cosmetics industry has experienced a complete shift toward consumer demand. The world is turning into clean and sustainable direction preferences, while environmental consciousness has increased. Moreover, there is a strong interest in finding
new sources as an alternative to conventional agriculture for extracting active ingredients. Consumers are increasingly aware of the complete production process and desire traceability. Given the industry’s high position in consumer products, it is important for cosmetics manufacturers to persistently work towards these goals to achieve the desired change.
Blue beauty: microalgae and marine extremophile active ingredients In the search for sustainable and environmentally friendly solutions, science has turned its attention to microalgae as a valuable source of beneficial active ingredients for various sectors. In the cosmetics industry, microalgae have increased in popularity due to their benefits for skin and hair. These algae are an innovative option as
they contain multiple nutrients, vitamins, and antioxidants to combat ageing. In addition, microalgae can be a sustainable alternative to conventional ingredients used in the cosmetic industry. Microalgae tapped into the ‘blue beauty’ movement, which is focused on improving the relationship between the beauty industry and marine life On the other hand, active ingredients from
extremophile microorganisms are substances derived from microorganisms that inhabit extreme environments, such as hot springs, deep-sea hydrothermal vents, and acidic or alkaline soils. These microorganisms have evolved unique mechanisms to survive in these harsh conditions, and their active ingredients have been found to have various beneficial properties, such as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial effects. Extremophiles microorganisms are increasingly being used in various industries, including cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, and biotechnology, due to their potential therapeutic and commercial value. However, the study of extremophile microorganisms and their active ingredients is still in its early stages, and much remains to be discovered about their potential applications.
Active ingredient made from Dunaliella salina Cobiosa presents solutions to rejuvenate the
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skin, using an active ingredient obtained from a highly resilient source. Dunalina is an extract derived from the microalgae Dunaliella salina, found in the Mediterranean Sea, cultivated under controlled conditions, and extracted with a sustainable method. Dunaliella salina is a type of unicellular
green microalgae found in highly saline environments, up to 35%. Dunaliella salina species are capable to maintain their survival under these high salt concentrations and are known to be the only eukaryotic photosynthetic organism found in some concentrated saline seas.
One of the outstanding characteristics of
this microalgae is its mechanism of protection. Normally, Dunaliella salina has a green colour due to the presence of chlorophyll, the pigment responsible for photosynthesis. However, when faced with adverse
conditions, such as high concentrations of salinity and strong solar radiation, the microalgae respond by producing large amounts of a red pigment called beta-carotene. This accumulation of beta-carotene in the cells of Dunaliella salina gives it a pink or red colour, which allows it to protect itself from harmful solar radiation (Figure 1). In addition to colour change, this microalga also has physiological adaptations that allow it to survive in extreme environments. Unlike many other microalgae, Dunaliella salina lacks a rigid cell wall. This feature is important in highly saline environments, as it prevents osmotic problems caused by water entering through the cell wall. To combat this, Dunaliella salina
Figure 1: True-to-life image showing the colour change of the microalgae Dunaliella salina under extreme conditions
synthesizes and accumulates active metabolites known as compatible solutes. These compatible solutes, such as glycerol, act as protectors of cell membrane function by maintaining osmotic pressure within the microalgal cells.
September 2023 PERSONAL CARE
47
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