SKIN MICROBIOME
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■ 4 sampling by swabbing performed (T0, T+5h, D3 & D7) ■ The cosmetic product to be evaluated is applied twice a day for three days
■ The viability evaluation method is performed according to the open access publication Robe et al., 2023
Figure 2: Evaluating a cosmetic ingredient
physiological saline was given a microbiome- friendly score of ‘A’, and chlorhexidine was given a significantly lower microbiome-friendly score of ‘E’.
Defining an approved methodology to evaluate the scale of microbiome disturbance Givaudan evaluated the effect of the topical applications on the neck microbiome among volunteers by examining three time points in the longitudinal follow-up: Flash disturbance (very short-term effect) assessed five hours after the first topical application Cumulative disturbance (short-term effect), assessed after three days of repeated topical application, twice a day Resilience capacity of the microbiome
(longer-term effect), assessed four days after stopping the twice-daily application. Resilience of the skin microbiota indicates the skin’s ability to maintain its initial state or to recover from perturbations. The result was a scale of microbiome
disturbance or friendliness ranging from A (neutral) to E. The scoring system can be broken down even further, as the sum of the points awarded for the three parameters – flash disturbance, cumulative disturbance and resilience – resulted in a cumulative score, between 0 to 25. A score of 0 indicated a highly perturbing
ingredient that strongly altered the skin’s bacterial density and affected resilience of the skin’s microbiota, whereas a score of 25 pointed to a neutral ingredient that had no adverse effects on the skin’s bacterial density. To make this more easily understood, this cumulative score was equally distributed across five lettered score categories: A (21 to 25 points), B (16 to 20 points), C (11 to 15 points), D (6 to 10 points), and E (0 to 5 points). It is important to note that the viability score
does not categorize an ingredient as inherently ‘good’ or ‘bad’. Instead, it assesses how the ingredient affects the density of skin bacteria in the short term, taking into account specific concentration and topical application conditions. Furthermore, the purpose of the viability
score is not to offer qualitative information regarding modifications to the composition of the bacterial community. Instead, it aims to closely represent the short-term influence of an ingredient on the overall population of bacteria found on the skin.
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Biome-based certification system offers kinetic ingredient analysis Each ingredient was tested by swabbing on 12 volunteers. The volunteers are swabbed before any product is applied, providing a baseline (T0). Three consecutive swabbing tests are then conducted (Figure 2). Swabs are evaluated after the volunteer applies the product once, and this is monitored five hours later for impact and potential flash disturbance on the microbiota viability (T+5h). After three days of twice-daily application, the cumulative effect on the skin microbiota is also assessed (D3). Application of the products is then stopped, and skin is assessed for skin resilience four days later and for whether the skin has recovered its initial viability state (D7).
Ingredients certification across the Givaudan Active Beauty portfolio Thanks to the success of the scoring system, certificates will become available on Givaudan’s Active Beauty Lab for each ingredient in Givaudan’s Active Beauty portfolio. The B-Biome Score methodology can be applied to cosmetic ingredients as well as extended to assess the impact of associated molecules, such as preservatives or fragrances. Certificates are based on biome data
garnered from volunteers who have tested each ingredient. Certificates will show the certification date for the ingredient, experimental details, and the global B-Biome Score of the ingredient, together with kinetic results (time-dependent results). In addition, a detailed concluding summary
of the performance of results is generated for each ingredient. So far, certificates have been generated for ten of Givaudan’s Active Beauty products, including PrimalHyal™ Hydra[+] (Score A) ; Patchoul’Up™ (Score A) et Mangixyl™ (Score B).
Dermatologically reviewed and scientifically supported scoring methodology Givaudan’s methodology for generating a microbiome score was reviewed and supported by Dr. Marzia Baldi, Head of Clinical Dermatology at Gavazzeni Hospital in Italy, who stated that “the defined time points appear an interesting representation of short-, medium-, and long-term effect and…also able to take into account bacterial resilience and restoration of the bacterial population, leading to a reliable
score-like representation”.2 Gavazzeni concluded that “the objective
of representing on a scale a transparent, reliable and scientifically supported method of evaluation of microbiome friendliness of cosmetic products has been successfully reached.” Givaudan published all its methodology in an open-access, peer-reviewed scientific publication.3
Stronger consumer response and customer access to the B-Biome Score™ Givaudan Active Beauty extended its testing to consumer groups and gained insights around the B-Biome Score by canvassing 1,816 beauty product users from Brazil, France, Germany, USA and China. Responses so far have been strong: 84%
perceive the B-Biome Score to be “innovative” and 79% state they are “probably” or “definitely” ready to make purchases based on the score. Consumer testing also revealed that 88% of consumers would be willing to pay more for cosmetics certified with the B-Biome Score icon. Customers interested in obtaining
certifications of microbiome friendliness for their own product or ingredient not yet listed within Givaudan Active Beauty’s certification portfolio are invited to partner with Givaudan Active Beauty to utilise the B-Biome Score. Customers are welcome to perform their
own evaluations internally, by referring to Givaudan Active Beauty’s published methodology,3
or with the support of a
CRO (contract research organization) or by coordinating directly with Givaudan Active Beauty, whereby requests will be determined according to each business case.
PC
References 1. Givaudan Active Beauty global consumer online study on skin microbiome. 2018, USA, Brazil, France, Germany, China, Japan, South Korea
2. Dr. Marzia Baldi. Head of Clinical Dermatology. Gavazzeni Hospital, Bergamo, Italy
3. Givaudan Active Beauty. Rehabilitation of Skin Bacterial Counts to Assess the Short-Term Impact of Ingredients in Topical Applications—Presenting a Culture- Based Viability Score.
https://www.mdpi.com/2079- 9284/10/2/50
September 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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