SKIN MICROBIOME
Is the skin microbiome a cul-de-sac?
Harald van der Hoeven - CLR
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The skin microbiome has been in the limelight of the cosmetic industry for about the past five years. Where are we? Has the topic been fully accepted and appreciated by the consumer? How has the cosmetic industry evolved and how have we made the skin microbiome part of our skincare products, the claims we make and the research we are doing? As anybody will recognize, the skin
microbiome had a promising start in the cosmetic industry, but this seems to have come to a stop. As a claim and topic of commercial interest, it has not disappeared, but it has not evolved into an issue that is recognized as important by the average consumer. The consumer knows that there is something
called a microbiome which occupies her body, she understands that there is a difference between ‘good’ and ‘bad’ microbes, and that ‘bad’ microbes play a negative role in some skin concerns, such as dry and atopic skin or skin which is acne-prone. She is also interested in preserving the ‘good’ microbes. ‘Good’ versus ‘bad’ is easy to comprehend.
The fact that it is the composition of the skin microbiome that is pivotal and not single good versus single bad species is far too complex for many people working in the cosmetic industry, let alone for the consumer.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
A logical consequence of this situation is
that currently we either see products on the market which are intended for the treatment of ‘problematic’ (e.g. acneic, atopic) skin and are mostly sold in pharmacies which make claims concerning the skin microbiome, or ‘microbiome- friendly’ claims on more conventional cosmetic and personal care products. The former makes sense. Science shows us
that, for virtually every ailment, our body shows an altered composition of the microbiome in the body’s areas which are involved in the respective ailment. This clearly is true for skin ailments as well. Although we are still miles away from fully understanding skin ailments such as atopic dermatitis or acne, there is some understanding of how the composition of the skin microbiome in these types of skin is different from healthy skin and indeed how to provide a solution with a topically applied product as sold in pharmacies.
Is ‘microbiome-friendly’ all we can do? The ‘microbiome-friendly’ claim is probably typical for the types of claims which are currently made in the cosmetic and personal care market. It is a type of claim which is instantly recognized and appreciated by the average consumer. Arguably, the ‘microbiome-friendly’ claim falls
in the same category as ‘natural’ or ‘clean’ claims. At first glance, these claims are easily
understood and appreciated by the consumer. As consumers we tend to instantly decide whether a product is interesting enough for us to buy. It is an emotional rather than a rational choice we tend to make. ‘At first glance’ is therefore decisive, but as with all ‘at first glances,’ if you start to think about these claims, what do they actually mean? Does ‘microbiome-friendly’ merely mean that the cosmetic formulation does not harm the skin microbiome, or does it mean that the formulation is good for the skin microbiome? If the latter is the case, what does ‘good’ mean in this context? What remains are lots of open questions and a claim which is, arguably, just as ‘empty’ as ‘clean’ or ‘natural.’
CTRL-ALT-DEL The above leaves us with the question: Where next? For the consumer, ‘good versus bad’ and ‘microbiome-friendly’ are easy and appealing claims, but as cosmetic scientists we have now come to recognize that the skin microbiome is much more than just a marketing trend. The skin microbiome is, in its essence, all-encompassing. Our skin microbiome defines the health and quality of our skin to a considerable
September 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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