84 CIRCULAR BEAUTY A Evaluation of skin barrier function Placebo 0 -10 -20 -30 #p<0.1 -11.5%# Wastar™ Lavender 1%
0.4 0.2 0
-0.2 -0.4
protection 100%**
Untreated Not
exposed Exposed to indoor pollutants Untreated Placebo Wastar™
B Evaluation of skin luminosity
Lavender 1% **p<0.01
Figure 5: Clinical results for upcycled Lavandula angustifolia extract 1% protective effects on (A) skin barrier function and (B) skin luminosity following acute pollutant stress
terebinthifolia extract (1%) on the scalp significantly reduced scalp scaling by -6% at D7 and by -16% at D14, over placebo (Figure 4C). Representative photographs of scalps exhibiting better control of flaking with time when treated with the extract (1%), under helmet wearing conditions, are shown in Figure 4D. These results confirm that the upcycled
Schinus terebinthifolia extract is effective at reducing scalp flaking, a state associated with itching, when the scalp is kept under conditions of increased moisture and friction. Similar results were also obtained in women
volunteers wearing a hijab, under the same conditions of moisture and hot weather. Their scalp health was improved within seven days of treatment, with a significant reduction of redness and scaling scores. Self-assessment results reported a feeling of freshness, healthier, cleaner, less itchy and less flaky scalp (data not shown).
Clinical results obtained with the upcycled Lavandula angustifolia extract on pollutant-challenged skin Indoor and outdoor pollutants are increasingly threatening human health. Being at the interface with air, the skin is particularly vulnerable to pollution. Environmental pollutants concentrate at the skin surface which they eventually penetrate via direct transcutaneous uptake. In the skin, pollutants induce several
biochemical changes and stimulate molecular mechanisms leading to increased oxidative and inflammatory processes. Chronic exposure to airborne pollutants intensifies the signs of skin ageing and is linked to exacerbation of various skin diseases.8
Protection of the skin barrier function The aim of the first clinical study was to confirm earlier positive results obtained in vitro on skin barrier function with the upcycled Lavandula angustifolia extract. Results showed that application of the extract (1%) for 14 days on forearm skin reduced water loss by -29% compared to -17.5% with the placebo, for a differential reduction of -11.5% compared to
PERSONAL CARE November 2022
baseline (Figure 5A). In vivo results thus confirm in vitro
observation of a positive effect of the upcycled Lavandula angustifolia extract on the barrier function of skin.
Protection of skin luminosity following indoor pollutant stress The aim of the second study was to evaluate if the upcycled Lavandula angustifolia extract could prevent the loss of skin luminosity resulting from exposure to acute pollutant stress. As seen in Figure 5B, exposure of forearm skin to a mixture of indoor pollutants caused a loss (-0.65%) of skin luminosity. Application of the extract (1%), initiated
before and continued during pollutant challenge, assured total protection (100%) of skin luminosity with even slightly improved results at the end of the study compared to baseline. Placebo treatment had no significant protective effect.
Conclusion The upcycled Schinus terebinthifolia and Lavandula angustifolia extracts are good examples of how the recently created synergy between the fragrance and cosmetic industries can produce original, upcycled and sustainable cosmetic ingredients with interesting effects. Both extracts are derived from by-products of the perfume industry. The upcycled Schinus terebinthifolia
extract has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties combined with the ability to modulate TRPV4-histamine-mediated induction of itching. Clinical studies have shown that this extract helps maintain the scalp healthy by protecting it from erythema, pruritus and flaking and thus may prevent the scalp from itching in conditions of increased moisture and friction. By strengthening the barrier function and
mitigating the oxidative and inflammatory cascades, the upcycled Lavandula angustifolia extract shields sensitive skin from indoor pollutants-induced irritation and enhances
skin luminosity. In the long term, this upcycled extract, could thus protect the skin against premature ageing due to pollution exposure. From the fragrance industry waste, a huge
potential of opportunities is still available for future launches of sustainable upcycled cosmetic ingredients.
PC
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2. Chen Y, Fang Q, Wang Z, Zhang JY, MacLeod AS, Hall RP, Liedtke WB. (2016). Transient Receptor Potential Vanilloid 4 Ion Channel Functions as a Pruriceptor in Epidermal Keratinocytes to Evoke Histaminergic Itch. The Journal of Biological Chemistry. 291(19) 10252–10262
3. Zhang Q, Henry G, Chen Y. (2021). Emerging Role of Transient Receptor Potential Vanilloid 4 (TRPV4) Ion Channel in Acute and Chronic Itch. Int. J. Mol. Sci. 22(14) 7591
4. Proksch E, Brandner JM, Jensen JM. (2008). The skin: an indispensable barrier. Experimental Dermatology. 17(12) 1063–1072
5. Curpen S, Francois-Newton V, Moga Aet al. (2020). A novel method for evaluating the effect of pollution on the human skin under controlled conditions. Skin. Res. Technol. 26 50-60
6. Ly BCK, Dyer EB, Feig JL, Chien AL, Del Bino S. (2020). Research Techniques Made Simple: Cutaneous Colorimetry: A Reliable Technique for Objective Skin Color Measurement. J. Invest. Dermatol. 140(1) 3-12.e1
7. Elewski BE. (2005). Clinical diagnosis of common scalp disorders. J. Investig. Dermatol. 10(3) 190-193
8. Araviiskaia E, Berardesca E, Bieber T, Gontijo G, Sanchez Viera M, Marrot L, Chuberre B, Dreno B. (2019). The impact of airborne pollution on skin. J. Eur. Acad. Dermatol. Venereol. 33(8) 1496–1505
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TEWL variation (% vs. D0)
TEWL variation (% vs. D0)
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