82 CIRCULAR BEAUTY
Figure 2: Schinus terebinthifolia and Lavandula angustifolia: examples of upcycling waste
(and) Water (and) Lavandula angustifolia (Lavender) Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract). The former is an extract of pink berry seeds
(Schinus terebinthifolia Raddi), while the latter is an extract of the aerial parts of lavender (Lavandula angustifolia Mill.). Both are by-products of the fragrance industry (spent plant residues after extraction of olfactory compounds) obtained using a proprietary hydro- alcoholic and water-based process, respectively. These ingredients are COSMOS-approved and standardised for biflavonoids (amentoflavone) and total polyphenols (rosmarinic acid) respectively, for batch-to-batch consistency. Previous in vitro studies (Figure 4) have
demonstrated that the upcycled Schinus terebinthifolia extract decreases the production of free radicals in human follicle dermal papilla cells (HFDPC) and normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) following stimulation with pyocyanin, a bacterium toxin known to generate reactive oxygen species.1 The extract also helps control IL-1a-
induced release of inflammatory mediators such as IL-6 and IL-8 in the same cell lines. In addition, Schinus terebinthifolia extract inhibits histamine-induced activation of transient receptor potential vanilloid 4 (TRPV4) channels expressed in human hair follicular keratinocytes (HHFK), an activity related to itching.2,3 When tested in human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) and human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK), the upcycled Lavandula angustifolia
extract also displayed antioxidant activity and control of inflammatory cascades. Moreover, the extract was able to enhance the expression of differentiation-related keratin 10 in NHEK. An optimized differentiation process is associated with improvement of the natural barrier function.4
Clinical evaluation of the upcycled Schinus terebinthifolia extract The effect of the upcycled Schinus terebinthifolia extract on scalp irritation and flaking was first evaluated in a group of 15 volunteers with itchy scalp living under monsoon-influenced humid subtropical climate, aged 19 to 32 years, who frequently wear a helmet. Eight volunteers applied a leave-on lotion
containing the extract (1%) twice daily for 14 days, while seven volunteers did the same with a placebo lotion. Scalp erythema, pruritus and flaking was assessed by a dermatologist at D0, D7 and D14. Scalp dermatoscopy was also performed at D0, D7 and D14 using a Heine Dermatoscope Delta 20 plus.
Clinical evaluation of the upcycled Lavandula angustifolia extract A first study investigated the effect of the upcycled Lavandula angustifolia extract on the barrier function of the skin. A panel of 11 volunteers, aged 26 to 59 years, with confirmed sensitive skin, was recruited. All volunteers applied the active formula with 1% lavender extract on one forearm and a placebo on the
other, twice daily for 14 days. Measurement of transepidermal water loss
(TEWL) was performed on designated areas at D0 and D14, using a Tewameter 300® probe (Courage + Khazaka, Germany) to assess the integrity of the skin barrier. Lower TEWL values reflect an improved skin barrier. A second study examined the effect of the
upcycled Lavandula angustifolia extract on skin luminosity following exposure to an original model of indoor pollution. The Controlled Pollution Exposure System (CPES) consists of a Vilnus Aerosol Generator (VAG) in which particulate pollutants are added.5 A specific and controlled cocktail of indoor
pollutants (house dust NIST2585) has been applied to each volunteer on forearms through this system of cups during four days (D14-D18). A panel of 12 volunteers, aged 25 to 59 years, with confirmed sensitive skin, was recruited. The clinical protocol was the same as for the first study. Skin color measurements were performed on defined zones at D0 and D17 with a chromameter using the L*a*b* color system (CIE lab 1976), where L* expresses skin luminance.6 For all studies, a statistical analysis was
carried out using the Student pair t-test, with the level of significance fixed at *p < 0.05, **p < 0.01, and ***p < 0.001.
Clinical results obtained with the upcycled Schinus terebinthifolia extract on scalp The skin of the scalp has several unique features. For instance, follicular density is much higher than anywhere else on the body, creating a dark, warm and moist environment that can lead to hyperkeratosis (scaling), pruritus and inflammatory signs (erythema, redness).7 It is known that regularly wearing a
Figure 3: In vitro results for Schinus terebinthifolia and Lavandula angustifolia extracts PERSONAL CARE November 2022
helmet, a toque, a scarf or a hijab increases scalp sensitivity due to constant friction and moisture build-up. The impact of such confined conditions worsens in a tropical environment (hot and humid weather) and in polluted cities (additional irritation by pollutants). These categories of population are thus prone to more frequent scalp disorders and may require specific cosmetic products to soothe such irritation.
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