NATURALS
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Conclusion These natural powders, oils and extracts are just a small selection of raw materials that can be utilised to achieve colour. Many more colour options can be found in the food industry, ranging from turmeric and saffron to vegetables such as beetroot and carrots. The requirement for strong stable natural
colourants in personal care means there is more room for further development as well as innovation in the natural colour sector. Today’s personal care formulators are able
Buriti fruit
A good example of this is Hibiscus flower which has an intense colour. Hibiscus has been widely used in Ayurvedic medicine, and the Ayurveda tradition calls it Japa Pushpa. Hibiscus has also traditionally been used as
a remedy for conditions ranging from hair loss to reduction in inflammation within the body. It can also be used for its skin care benefits including boosting skin suppleness. The hibiscus flower has a reddish-purple centre that evolves into red calyces once its flowers wilt. The resulting active is rich in chlorogenic acid and anthocyanins and has been shown to minimise skin irritation and support sensitive skin, as well as shielding the skin from oxidative stress. The use level of this active is below 2% yet it produces a very intense red-purple colour in the final formulation.
Colour from minerals As we saw with naturally occurring clays, minerals are a category that have been shown to have impact on colour. However, some minerals can be used alone to achieve colour in water based formulations, whilst maintaining clarity of the final formulation. Minerals can be found in in multiple forms in nature and offer a range of colours and added benefits. Malachite is a green copper carbonate mineral,
a natural resource for personal care formulations. The copper complex obtained from malachite, results in a blue to blue-green natural colour in a range of water based formulations. In the skin, trace elements are essential for cutaneous balance and can provide anti-oxidative action, photoprotection or prevention of cutaneous degradation. Malachite extract is a powerful free radical scavenger and boosts cellular defences offering protection and detoxifying benefits in a range of skincare formulations. With clever formulating, the rich mineral content
of Malachite can be used in formulations, allowing the oligoelements to be bioavailable for the skin as well as achieving stunning natural shades of blues.
Colour from algae In 1995 a functional nutritional component was discovered called natural astaxanthin. This nutrient gives salmon its very distinct, high impact orange-red colour. Astaxanthin is also produced by the Haematococcus algae in extreme environments with high UV exposure. It can be used in personal care and food
supplements due to its very powerful antioxidant
www.personalcaremagazine.com
November 2022 PERSONAL CARE Astaxanthin
properties. This makes it particularly useful in sun care and after sun formulations. At low use levels, a very natural orange colour is achievable and it can be used in a wide range of applications including emulsions or oil-based formulations.
to achieve colour, through a variety of different approaches, with actives that add more than colour, or the addition of pearlescent pigments or by using natural oils and extracts. This allows the formulator to create colour without losing naturality. A compromise no longer needs to be made
between colour and naturality. So many more options are available for today’s formulators to achieve desirable market products that are coloured but still maintain the high naturality demanded by today's demanding consumers.
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