COMMENT GLOBAL


5


Editor Tim Probert timprobert@personalcaremagazine.com


Business Manager Chris Vincent chrisvincent@personalcaremagazine.com


Publication Administration Katy Cockle katycockle@personalcaremagazine.com


Design Aaron Batson


Publisher Geoff King geoffking@personalcaremagazine.com


Publishing Director Trevor Moon trevormoon@personalcaremagazine.com


In memory of Josh Taylor EDITORAL BOARD


Lorraine Dallmeier CEO Formula Botanica


Giorgino D. Macalino Associate Director, R&D Makeup Innovation Estée Lauder Companies


Anthony O’Lenick Principal Consultant Nascent Technologies


Dr. Fred Zülli Founder & Business Development Director Mibelle Biochemistry


editorial@personalcaremagazine.com


Welcome to the November issue of Personal Care Global. This issue is being distributed at in-cosmetics Asia in Bangkok and we hope to see as many readers as possible during our time in Bangkok at our stand - L90 – where the


latest volume of the Little Book of Skin Care will also be available. Come and say hi. Skin care was, of course, a dominant theme IFSCC Congress in London where a


of the 32nd


fascinating presentation was given on the topic of ring collagen by the principal chief scientist of Japanese beauty giant Shiseido, Dr Tomonobu Ezure. By way of a 4D study into the tensional


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dynamics of facial skin, Ezure’s team have discovered ring collagen networks are critical for human beauty because areas associated with loss of ring collagen - comprised of fine hairs, collagen fibres and proteoglycans – have more sagging. Subsequent research found Wnt-16 protein


can increase ring collagen and thus rejuvenate the face. The research into ring collagen, said Ezure, represents a paradigm shift and opens up a new front in the war against ageing skin. Another highlight of the IFSCC Congress was a presentation by Stanford University’s


Christopher Berkey on his research into personal care ingredient interactions to deliver optimal performance of skin care formulations. His research, supported by BASF, found the


ability of emollients to reduce stress in skin is extremely linear. In other words, the higher the amount of emollient, the lower the stress and the greater the penetration. Large emollients that poorly penetrate in their


pure form have the greatest enhancement from formulation inclusion. Berkey also found the firing rate of skin mechanoreceptors plays a role in the perceived tightness or softness of skin - the higher the firing rate, the tighter skin feels and vice versa. Elsewhere, Swedish cosmetics portal Oriflame


unveiled a consumer study on the growing trend of ‘glow’ or skin radiance. The message was clear – consumer perception varies considerably between regions and this should be borne in mind when promoting products. What consumers may perceive to be as glowing skin in Mexico, for example, may be seen as an oily appearance in Russia. Ethnic variations and cultural differences


also complicate perceptions of skin glow, market positioning and product formulation. Oriflame found participants felt talking about skin whitening was insensitive whereas in east Asia it is still seen as the pinnacle of beauty standards. Enjoy the magazine.


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No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means: electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without prior permission of the publisher


ISSN 2041-0441


timprobert@personalcaremagazine.com Tim Probert,Editor


Image (above): An iconic London Routemaster bus sponsored by Biocogent, a US provider of science- led active ingredients for personal care, takes IFSCC 32nd Congress delegates to a networking event at Madame Tussauds


www.personalcaremagazine.com November 2022 PERSONAL CARE EDITOR’S COMMENT


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