26 ANTI-POLLUTION ■ Control ■ 1% Ectoin ■ Cream with 0.25% hydrocortisone
30 25 20 15 10 5 0
-5 Day 2 Day 3 Figure 2: Average values of TEWL
TEWL increased significantly after SDS treatment in all test persons. For 1% Ectoin, a decrease of TEWL by 28%
after seven days of twice daily application was shown (Figure 2). After seven days, the efficacy of 1% Ectoin was higher compared to the results of treatment with 0.25% hydrocortisone cream.
Protection against pollution induced pigmentation In the past years, several epidemiological and mechanistic studies concluded a connection between pollutants and acceleration of wrinkle and pigment spot formation. In highly polluted areas like Beijing or New Delhi, air pollution is considered one of the main factors for premature skin ageing. Air pollutants may not only induce skin
ageing but are also linked to causing or worsening acne, atopic dermatitis, eczema, allergic reactions or even skin cancer. Current research suggests that each individual pollutant has a specific toxic action on the skin and that the sum of stress factors might not be additive but might cause qualitative new reactions on human skin due to interactions of pollutants.15 Also, the combination of sun light and air pollution most likely has a synergistic effects on skin ageing and diseases. The first study showing that particulate
matter (PM) has a negative impact on human skin was conducted by Vierkötter et al. in 2010.1 In this study with 400 Caucasian women, the association between PM exposure and pigment spot formation was shown. PM is a carrier for organic compounds like
heavy metals and PAHs (polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons). PAHs are highly lipophilic and thus easily penetrate the skin. PAH and PM are known to modify the expression and the release of POMC (pro-opiomelanocortin) and MMP1 (matrixmetallopeptidase-1) resulting in the formation of pigment spots, collagen breakdown and wrinkles.15,16 The latest scientific research indicates ) might also have
that nitrogen dioxide (NO2
a negative impact on skin integrity. Hüls et al. 2015 assessed the link between chronic exposure to NO2
PERSONAL CARE November 2022 and pigment spot formation.17 The clinical relevance of these scientific Day 5 Day 7
*p<0.05 vs. untreated +p<0.05 vs. +/- Ectoin
2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0
+ *
-100% *
-100% *
■ Without Ectoin ■ With Ectoin +
+ * *
-99% *
*
-100% *
+
Control Printex 90 Huber 990 SRM 1650 SRM 2975
Figure 3: Up-regulation of POMC mRNA expression in primary human keratinocytes (Asian and Caucasian) by ultrafine (Printex90) and fine (Huber990) carbon black particles and by two different types of exhaust particulates (SRM1650, SRM2975)
findings showing the damaging impact of air pollution on human skin touches upon aspects of both: prevention and therapy. Skin care and protection strategies which do not include pollution protection may need to be reconsidered. One effective strategy to protect skin from
air pollution is to maintain a healthy epidermal barrier function. Larger pollution particles like PM10 and PM2.5 can thus be prevented from penetrating the skin. Yet air pollution is a very complex mixture
of various chemicals and particles of different sizes. Given that particulate matter consists to 80% of ultrafine particles (UFP) like PM0.1 and smaller,18
of toxic compounds, like PAHs and heavy metals is related to ultrafine particles, anti- pollution strategies should particularly target ultrafine particles. An ex vivo study with fresh epidermal
keratinocytes from a female Caucasian and Asian donor has shown that Ectoin is capable to protect skin cells against the damaging impact of pollution particles of various sizes, particularly from ultrafine particles. Cells were untreated and pre-treated (24 hours) with 2 mM Ectoin solution. Afterwards, cells were stressed with fine and ultrafine carbon black particles and different surrogates for authentic street particulate matter such as SRM 1650 and SRM 2975. After the particle stress, the expression of
POMC mRNA was measured in keratinocytes by using real time PCR. The results in Figure 3 show that fine and ultrafine carbon black particles and diesel particulate matter induced POMC mRNA expression. POMC is known for melanogenesis stimulation in human melanocytes and to cause dark spot formations. It can therefore be used as a marker gene for pigmentation.16 Keratinocytes, protected with Ectoin significantly down regulated PM induced over- expression of POMC mRNA in all tested cases by 100% or by 99%. These study results were confirmed in a
placebo-controlled ex vivo study on human living skin explants which were stressed with diesel exhaust particles for six days. The skin explants not treated with Ectoin showed a
and the highest level of concentration
strong pigmentation reaction, whereas those treated with Ectoin were hardly impacted. These results underline the strong protection efficacy of Ectoin against pollution induced pigmentation.19
Protection against blue light induced pigmentation Another external stress factor inducing skin damage is blue light (450 to 495 nm). It is part of the visible light spectrum (390 to 700 nm) and is not only emitted by the sun, but also by digital devices like computer or smartphone screens. Various studies have shown negative effects
of visible light radiation on the skin including erythema, pigmentation, thermal damage and free radical production. Visible light can also induce indirect DNA damage due to the generation of ROS.20 Most of the currently available UV-filters,
organic and inorganic, offer, if any, weak protection against visible light. This limited effectiveness indicates the need for further protection concepts. Botta et al. (2008) demonstrated in an in
vitro study set-up that Ectoin prevents oxidative damage in the skin induced by visible light irradiation.21
Here, Ectoin showed a protection
level of up to 90% against the damaging impact of visible light on human keratinocytes. In an ex vivo study, human living skin
explants were pre-treated with 1% Ectoin and exposed to visible light (65 J/cm2
). Afterwards,
the parameters Nrf2 and MC1R were evaluated by immunostaining. Nrf2 is a key transcription factor in the cellular response to oxidative damage induced by ROS. Nrf2 content in the cell increases automatically when the skin is exposed to visible light or other stress factors. The study demonstrated the reduction of
the cell´s stress response to oxidative stress induced by visible light irradiation due to Ectoin pre-treatment. The presence of Ectoin decreased the need of Nrf2 in the cell (Figure 4). The results indicate that Ectoin can protect the skin from visible light induced skin damage and photo-ageing. Visible light has been reported to induce as well as long lasting
both transient,22
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Improvement of TEWL (%)
POMC / 18S rRNA expression
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