58 FORMULATING FOR MILDNESS
the lipid solubilisation. Therefore, as with most critical elements of formulating with surfactants, there needs to be a careful balance struck between overall mildness of the formulation and the resulting interaction and potential damage to protein and lipids within the skin. The effect on the stratum corneum by the
disruption of the lipid bilayer by the action of surfactants can ultimately negatively alter the mechanical properties of the skin.11
The
results of this work demonstrate that harsher surfactants can remove lipid components and alter the lipid packing giving a negative effect on the stress relaxation properties of the stratum corneum, ultimately leading to higher drying stresses. Results of repeat insult patch testing
are shown in Figure 5. These demonstrate that the individual ‘sulfate-free’ surfactants lead to less irritation and therefore can be considered milder than both SLES and SLS. Further literature studies also report and substantiate claims for the relative mildness in combinations of surfactants.12,13
Optimising foam performance While the main function of surfactants is to clean the skin and hair, the foaming character of a formulation can be more often the driver in consumer perception and preference. We often cite phrases like ‘tight luxurious foam’, ‘good flash foam’ and ‘wide open bubbles’ when giving descriptors for the performance of a surfactant. While such cues from a consumer
perspective, are taken as an indicator of product quality, it is notably ironic that from a technical standpoint the ‘foam quality’ is not necessarily linked to the cleaning performance of a formulation. Innospec Mild ‘Sulfate-Free’ Surfactants
offer the potential method to produce a wide and differentiated range of foam
INCI
textures to enhance the consumer appeal and experience. Sodium Cocoyl isethionate (Pureact I-78) is renowned for the generation of dense creamy foams whereas Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate (Iselux), giving a luxurious lather, and when partnered with Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate (Pureact LSR) this combination offers superior speed of foam development and high flash foaming character in combination with a mixed foam profile. Combinations of Sodium Methyl Cocoyl
Taurate (Pureact WS Conc) and Sodium Lauroyl methyl Isethionate (Iselux) with Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate (Pureact LSR), Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate (Pureact GLT) or other tertiary surfactants at low inclusion levels can achieve significant changes to the foam profiles. Figure 6 highlights the visual differences that can be achieved when combining Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate with Cocamidopropyl Betaine and other co- surfactants.
based products. Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology
6. Schepky AG, Holtzmann U, Siegner R, Zirpins S, Schucker R, Wenck H et al. Influence of cleansing on stratum corneum tryptic enzyme in human skin. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 26, 245–253 (2004)
7. Pape WJW, Pfannenbecker UH. Validation of the red blood cell test system as in vitro assay for the rapid screening of irritation potential of surfactants. Molecul. Toxicol. 1, 525–536 (1987)
8. Schrader K, Domsch A. 5.2 Shampoos. Cosmetology - Theory and Practice: Research, Test, Methods, Analysis, Formulas. pp. 9–36. Verlag für Chemische Industrie. Bobingham (2005)
PC
References 1. Ananthapadmanabhan KP, Yang L, Vethamuthu M, Tsaur L, Vincent C, Zhang S, Shiloach A, Cece A. Relative Role of Surfactant Interaction with Proteins and Lipids in Cleanser Induced Skin Dryness. J of Am. Acad. Derm. 68 (4) 2013
2. Cornwell P, Goodwin J. Designing mild personal care products: A case study. Cosmet. Toil. 127, 706–716 (2012)
3. Rustemeyer T, Van Hoogstraten IMW, Von Blomberg BME, Gibbs S, Scheper RJ, Mechanisms of irritant and allergic contact dermatitis. Contact Dermatitis (Fifth Edition). Springer Berlin Heidelberg. 2011. pp 43–90
4. Saad P, Flach CR, Walters RM, Mendelsohn R. Infrared spectroscopic studies of sodium dodecyl sulphate permeation and interaction with stratum corneum lipids in skin. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 34, 36–43 (2012)
5. Paye, M. Mechanism of skin irritation by surfactants and anti-irritants for surfactant-
TABLE 2: LOW PH MILD FEMININE HYGIENE WASH S0245 Phase Ingredients A
Aqua Glycerine B
Flocare C-107 Pureact WS-70 Pureact MS-CG Pureact LSR
C Dermofeel P-30 E Polyquaternium-7
Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate Sodium Methyl Oleoyl Taurate Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate PCA-Glyceryl Oleate
D Empigen® CDR-60 Sodium Cocoamphoacetate Sodium Benzoate Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
F Gentle Care
G Citric acid solution Citric acid solution (50% w/w) Lactic acid solution Lactic acid solution (80% w/w) Sodium Chloride
Appearance: Clear viscous liquid pH: 4.0 – 4.3 Viscosity: 5,000 – 8,000 Cp, 20°C
Suppliers: 1. SNF 2: Innospec 3. Evonik 4. Azur Fragrance 1
2 2 2 3 2
Supplier % w/w 4
q.s. 100 3.00 0.50 16.75 4.00 1.00 1.00 7.50 0.50 0.40 0.50 1.40
0.80 0.4
9. Lips A, Anathapadmanabhan KP, Vethamuthu M, Hua XY, Yang L, Vincent C, Deo N, Somasundaran P. Role of surfactant micelle charge in protein denaturation and surfactant- induced skin irritation. In: Surfactants in Personal Care and Decorative Cosmetics. CRC Press. 2006
10. Ananthapadmanabhan, KP, Lang Y, Vincent C et al. A novel technology in mild and moisturising cleansing liquids. Cosmet. Dermatol. 22, 307–316 (2009)
11. Purohit P, Chandar P, Vilinska A, Ananthapadmanabhan KP, Somasundaran P. Effect of mixed surfactants on stratum corneum: a drying stress and Raman spectroscopy study. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 36, 379–385 (2014)
12. Morris SA, McCardy N, Thompson R, Allen T, Altemeier A, Wehmeyer K, Hinkle R, Jones M, Spruell R, Stoffolano P, Miller MA, Styczynski P, Glenn R, Kasting GB. Comparing Surfactant Penetration into Human Skin and Resulting Skin Dryness Using In Vivo and Ex Vivo Methods. J. Cosmet. Sci. 2019; 70(1):33-45
13. James-Smith MA, Hellner B, Annunziato N, Mitragotri S. Effect of surfactant, mixtures on skin structure and barrier properties. Ann. Biomed. Eng. 39, 1215–1223 (2010)
TABLE 3: HIGH NATURAL >96% ISO16128, FACIAL CLEANSER GEL S0236 Phase Ingredients A
INCI Aqua Natrlquest E30 B Iselux®
Pureact WS-70 Pureact GLT
C Rheocare XG E F
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate
Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate Glycerin
Xanthan Gum
D Empigen® BS/H50 Cocamidopropyl Betaine Sodium Benzoate Benzyl Alcohol
Strawberry and Rhubarb Pie
G Citric acid solution (50%w/w)
Appearance: Clear/slight haze viscous liquid pH: 5.7 Viscosity: 2,500 – 3,500 Cp, 20°C
Suppliers: 1. Innospec 2. BASF 3. Azur Fragrance Fragrance Citric acid 1
1 1
1
2 1
Supplier % w/w
q.s. 100 0.15
1.25 5.00
25.00 2.00 1.00 8.57 0.50 0.50
3
0.50
q.s.to
pH 5.7
PERSONAL CARE November 2022
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92
