ANTI-POLLUTION NEGATIVE CONTROL PLACEBO PRE-TREATMENT 1% ECTOIN PRE-TREATMENT
27
Without visible light irradiation
Without visible light irradiation
Without visible light irradiation
With visible light irradiation
With visible light irradiation
With visible light irradiation
Figure 4: Nrf2 immunostaining of the negative control, placebo and 1% Ectoin pre-treatment batch with and without visible light irradiation
NEGATIVE CONTROL PLACEBO PRE-TREATMENT 1% ECTOIN PRE-TREATMENT
Without visible light irradiation
Without visible light irradiation
Without visible light irradiation
With visible light irradiation
With visible light irradiation
With visible light irradiation
Figure 5: MC1R immunostaining of the negative control, placebo and 1% Ectoin pre-treatment batch with and without visible light irradiation
pigmentation in human skin.23 MC1R is a
marker for skin pigmentation as its activation leads to eumelanin production. Visible light increases MC1R content which therefore leads to pigmentation of the skin. The results of the ex vivo study (Figure 5) indicate a reduction of visible light induced melanogenesis due to Ectoin pre-treatment.
Whitening and lightening efficacy In general, the market for active ingredients for skin whitening continues to grow, especially in regions like Asia, Africa, the Middle East and Latin America, and is expected to expand at a compound annual growth rate of 5.5% from 2022 to 2030, according to Grand View Research.24 Most of these actives work by absorbing harmful UV rays from the sun or inhibiting the production of melanin in the skin which causes dark pigmentation. Also, the amino acid derivate Ectoin shows brightening efficacy which was shown in an in vivo study. In this study, a cream containing 1% Ectoin was applied on the face of the test persons
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twice daily for 84 days. All 22 test persons (Asian females, 36-60 years old) presented photo type skin III and IV and at least one pigment spot with a diameter ≥ 3mm on the face. The skin colour was measured on day 0, 56
and 84 by a Spectrocolorimeter® to evaluate two different parameters, the depigmenting effect and the reduction of the different pigmentations. Ectoin significantly increased the skin
lightness by up to 3% and significantly decreased skin pigmentation by up to 28% (Table 1). These effects were observed on 100% of the test persons. Furthermore, the variation between pigmented skin and normal skin significantly decreased by up to 22% with Ectoin (Table 2).
Based on its cell protection benefits,
Ectoin offers whitening efficacy for the application in any kind of skin care concepts. It reduces oxidative stress and damaging as well as inflammatory gene expression only by mechanical stabilization of the cell membrane. Therefore, it is also perfectly suitable for long- term use.
November 2022 PERSONAL CARE
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