74 ANTI-AGEING matures it into type III collagen.19,20
meprin α inactivates MMP-1 and significantly suppresses its collagenase activity.21
Interestingly, On the
other hand, a decrease in meprin α with ageing causes a reduction in the diameter of collagen fibres and a thinning of the dermis, resulting in weakening of the skin.22 DCE was confirmed to significantly improve
meprin α and MMP-1 secretion level compared to control (Figure 2). Promotion of meprin α secretion may lead to the maturation of type III collagen and the enhancement of its protective function.
These findings indicate that DCE is expected
to restore youthful skin functions, such as high resilience, through the reconstruction of the collagen composition.
Human clinical study This study was conducted for a period of four weeks for each subject. A total of 12 healthy female subjects in their 30s and 40s with an average age of 41.2 were enrolled in the study. Subjects were given placebo lotion and 1% DCE-containing lotion. Subjects applied each lotion on the right or left side of the face and inner forearm twice daily for four weeks. The objective of this study was to assess the
efficacy of DCE in improving collagen density, skin resiliency, wrinkle formation, and marks caused by mechanical stress. The application area of test lotion is shown in Figure 3. Collagen density inside the skin on the side
of the nose was measured using DermaLab (Cortex Technology), which visualizes collagen density by reflected echogenic signals. The yellow colour in the image indicates the high- density part of collagen. The active group was confirmed to significantly
increase skin collagen density compared to placebo group after four weeks (Figure 4). Although the device cannot sort collagen types, collagen density of the upper dermis rich in type III collagen was firmly increased. Skin resiliency on the lid-cheek junction
was measured using Cutometer Dual MPA580 (Courage + Khazaka), which calculates the indexes related to the viscoelasticity of the skin surface by the suction method that the skin is
A
2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0
DCE (%) Kaempferol glycosides
- -
Cell type Normal ** ++ ++ ++ B
2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0
- -
0.5 -
1.0 -
Senescent
- +
DCE (%)
Kaempferol glycosides Cell type
- -
0.5 -
++ ++
1.0 -
Senescent
Figure 1: Enhancement of Type III procollagen production and improvement of III/I procollagen ratio NHDF in normal (PDL = 10) and senescence (PDL = 32) states were cultured with DCE or kaempferol glycosides after starvation for one day. Cell lysates were collected after three days of culture and analysed by ELISA for type III procollagen (A), and the ratio of type III to type I procollagen was calculated (A). Each value is presented as the mean ± SEM. **; p < 0.01 (Student’s t-test), ††; p < 0.01 compared with the control (black column) (Dunnett’s test)
A
2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0
DCE (%) - Cell type Normal ** ++ ++ B
2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0
- 0.5 Senescent 1.0 DCE (%) - Cell type Normal ** ++ ++
- +
-
0.5 Senescent
Figure 2: Effect on producing type III procollagen regulators. NHDF were cultured with DCE or kaempferol glycosides after starvation for one day. Cell culture supernatants were collected after three days of culture and analysed by ELISA for meprin α (A) and MMP-1 (B). Each value is presented as the mean ± SEM. **; p < 0.01 (Student’s t-test), ††; p < 0.01 compared with the control (black column) (Dunnett’s test)
first elongated using a decompression probe and then released from the probe after five seconds to recover. Skin viscoelasticity was expressed as resiliency calculated from recovery/softness values. In general, young skin deforms like a red line,
Female in her 40s
Lid-cheek juction Side of nose Nasolabial fold
Baseline DCE Inner forearm (f 18cm) Figure 3: Application area of test sample PERSONAL CARE November 2022 Placebo 0.8 0.9 1.0 1.1
Collagen density at 4 weeks (fold change from baseline)
Figure 4: Effect on increasing skin collagen density. The distribution and the analysis of collagen density in the side of the nose was shown. Each value is presented as the mean ± SEM. **; p < 0.01 (Student’s t-test at four weeks)
www.personalcaremagazine.com ** 1.2 4 weeks
while aged skin loses softness and recovery like a black line (Figure 5A). The active group improved recovery more than softness (data not shown), and showed a significant increase in resilience compared with the placebo group (Figure 5B). Wrinkles and surface roughness on the
1.0
Meprin α secretion (fold change)
Type III procollagen production (fold change)
MMP-1 secretion (fold change)
Type III/I procollagen ratio
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