ANTI-POLLUTION
Natural molecule offering anti-pollution benefits
Janina Kienemund - Maxim Markenprodukte Eva Galik, René Schmitz - bitop
Human skin is situated at the interface of the organism and its environment and is therefore constantly exposed to numerous extrinsic stress factors. Chronic exposure to environmental conditions, including ultraviolet light (UV), blue light and air pollution has been shown to have a significant impact to skin health and ageing. It is an indisputable fact that cutaneous
ageing is mainly driven by external stress factors, promoting the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), encouraging inflammation processes in tissues and cells and compromising the natural skin barrier. This results in an increase of trans-epidermal
water loss (TEWL), along with a decrease of skin thickness, skin elasticity and the occurrence of wrinkles and pigment spots. Additionally, dermatoses like rash, eczema, allergies, psoriasis and atopic dermatitis are caused or exacerbated by external influences.1 Protecting the skin from external stress-
factors and the prevention of cell damage thus are logical and effective strategies to slow down premature skin ageing and treat disease affected skin. In recent years, stress-protection molecules, so-called extremolytes, have become popular as cosmetic active ingredients, e.g. bitop Ectoin® natural (hereafter referred to by its INCI name, Ectoin). Extremolytes are natural protection
substances of so-called extremophilic microorganisms and plants which thrive in the most hostile environments our world provides - deserts, arctic ice, hot springs or the deep sea. Extremolytes stabilize and protect the biological structures of the microorganisms such
40 30 20 10 0
Day 2 Day 3 Day 5
www.personalcaremagazine.com Figure 1: Average values of skin redness measured by chromametry
Day 7
negative impact of external stress factors. Furthermore, as demonstrated by Unfried et al.,5
inhaling Ectoin leads to a decrease of inflammatory parameters in the sputum in neutrophilic pneumonia and thus is used in medical inhalation products for the treatment of particle induced asthma or COPD. Ectoin also prevents the initiation of pro-inflammatory signaling cascades, such as intercellular adhesion molecule-1 (ICAM) on the surface of human keratinocytes.6 ICAM is a hallmark of inflammatory skin In this context, several studies have
diseases.7
provided evidence that Ectoin is a therapeutic and side-effect free option for the treatment of atopic dermatitis.8-13
The following study data
and information is based on 100% pure and natural Ectoin.
as cell membranes, proteins or DNA, thereby significantly reducing cellular stress reactions.2 Certain halophilic bacteria accumulate the
extremolyte Ectoin to protect their cytoplasmic biomolecules against harmful environmental conditions like UV-light, heat, freezing, dryness and osmotic stress.3
The amino acid derivate
Ectoin is a highly water binding molecule and compatible with the cellular metabolism without adversely affecting the biopolymers or physiologic processes.4 It can be isolated from halophilic bacteria
on a large scale and therefore is available as an active ingredient for skin care applications with various positive effects including the reduction of wrinkles, restoration and stabilization of the skin barrier or the protection of skin cells from the
■ Control ■ 1% Ectoin ■ Cream with 0.25% hydrocortisone
Skin barrier repair The epidermal barrier function is key for healthy skin and its protection from external stress factors like pollutants. Scientific research has defined clear connections between barrier impairments and compromised skin, including specific skin disorders like atopic skin and eczematous dermatitis.14 A clinical in vivo study with 20 subjects
demonstrated the effects of 1% Ectoin compared to 0.25% hydrocortisone cream (Ebenol®) and placebo on skin with compromised epidermal barrier function. For this purpose, the skin was stressed with 2% sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) for 24 hours and then treated twice daily for seven days with the verum (1% Ectoin), placebo and the positive control (cream with 0.25% hydrocortisone). The measured parameters were the improvement of skin redness (erythema) and TEWL. Skin redness increased after exposure
to SDS in all test persons. During the seven- day treatment, skin redness was indicated by measurements with a Chromameter. The intensity of redness decreased significantly during treatment with the verum and Ebenol cream (Figure 1). After seven days of twice daily application
with 1% Ectoin, the skin redness was significantly reduced by 38% (average value). During the study, the efficacy of 1% Ectoin was equivalent or slightly higher in comparison to treatment with 0.25% hydrocortisone cream. TEWL is a parameter for the detection of
compromised epidermal barrier function. Thus, the influence of the tested substances on the skin barrier could be directly demonstrated.
November 2022 PERSONAL CARE
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Improvement of redness (%)
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