NATURALS
Naturals: Colour without compromise
Claire Summers - Azelis
Colour is defined as the property possessed by an object of producing different sensations on the eye as a result of the way it reflects or absorbs colours from the visible electromagnetic spectrum, or visible light in simpler terms. So if an object reflects all of the visible light it will appear white or if it absorbs all of the visible light then the object appears black. Personal care formulators predominately
work in the area between these two extremes where just some of the light is absorbed or reflected and a colour is achieved.
Are white or black really considered colours? Irrespective of opinion, white is probably one of the easiest colours to achieve in personal care formulations, whether it is just as a result of the creation of an emulsion, or the use of a white pigment such as titanium dioxide, or even the inclusion of a rice starch. Many options are available to produce a white colouration but they are generally all easily achieved. Black is slightly more complex but a charcoal
or black matte pearlescent pigment can be used to achieve the desired effect. However, base formulation becomes critical with this specific colour as it can easily have a negative impact on the colour intensity. Colour is used in a variety of ways in
personal care formulations, from improving the appearance and ‘on the shelf’ attractiveness of a product to re-enforcing the product attributes and marketing claims made for the final formulation.
The link between colour and emotion So, how can we use colour to re-enforce product attributes? This is all down to the links that society and individuals make about certain colours, as well as how they impact on our emotions either alone or when combined with different fragrance families. The link between emotional state and perception occurs before we have even opened the bottle or jar of any personal care product. A good example of this would be to think of
a pale pink skin cream, for use specifically on the face. The pale pink colour already gives the user the impression that it will be soothing, mild and generally kinder to the skin. In contrast, can you now imagine using a
bright green cream which is marketed as being soothing for the skin? However, if you now
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imagine a foam bath that has a bright green colour with claims of added minerals or being inspired by the sea, then the consumer sees and understand the relationship between colour and performance of the foam bath for its cleansing and wellbeing marketing claims.
Choosing a suitable natural colourant There are a variety of types of colours that can be used across the plethora of personal care formulation types, both hydrous and anhydrous bases. Yet today more than ever before, much more emphasis is placed on the natural credentials of these colourants and how they affect the naturality of the final formulation. There are many different options to obtain a natural colouration in a product with endless possibilities of achievable colours. The first decision for the selection of the most suitable natural colourant to use in the formulation is answered by the following questions. ■ Is the colour to enhance the product when displayed at the retailer? ■ Does the colour need to remain even after application? ■ Is the colour added needed for the products performance? ■ What formulation benefits need to be
achieved which are not about colour? This allows us to classify the colour as being
either passive or active within the formulation created. Luckily, we have lots of options where the use of an active or functional part of the formulation actually contributes more than just the activity or functionality of the included raw material.
The final difference between these natural
colourants or raw materials that can be used to achieve colour in the formulation, is the form in which they exist. There are options in both powder and liquid forms, both water soluble or dispersible or even oil soluble, and depending on the formulation type a suitable way of achieving colour in the formulation can be easily found.
Raw material options So many raw material options are available for the formulator to achieve colour from many natural sources, with solutions ranging from minerals found in stones, plant seeds oils and flowers that can be used to achieve natural colouration. The first option are pearlescent pigments,
which can be described in simplistic terms, as a substrate with a colour attached onto the surface of the substrate. The substrates can vary from
November 2022 PERSONAL CARE
77
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