Volume 23 Issue 10
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CONTENTS
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Editor’s Comment
Cover Story: Elementis News
86 Formulations Get inspiration for your next project with a selection of prototype formulations from the world’s leading ingredient suppliers
FEATURES
17 Interview: Kayla Villena, Euromonitor International head of beauty &
personal care Ahead of in-cosmetics Asia in Bangkok, editor Tim Probert caught up with Kayla Villena – head of beauty & personal care at market research provider Euromonitor International – for some insight on the latest industry trends in the region
19 SCS Formulate preview – forward
thinking formulating SCS Formulate takes place on 15-16 November at the Coventry Building Society Arena, Coventry, UK. Over the two days, the exhibition at SCS Formulate features the raw materials, ingredients, technology and services from over 100 companies active within the UK personal care and cosmetic industry
25 Natural molecule offering
anti-pollution benefits German active ingredient supplier bitop explains why the natural extremolyte Ectoin is suited for cosmetic formulations for all skin types, matching various consumer demands and market trends such as anti-pollution, blue light protection and whitening
30 Anti-pollution benefits of
multi-tasking esterquats US firm Stepan Personal Care initiated laboratory testing for its two novel skin and hair conditioning esterquats to see if they could provide anti-pollution properties. Test results showed Stepanquat Helia and Stepanquat Soleil can build a film on the skin and hair that then protected them against the adhesion of polluting microparticles
35 Benefits of astaxanthin for
anti-pollution Austrian outfit BDI-BioLife Science has developed its own raw material containing 5% of astaxanthin. The properties of the red diamond have been substantiated by in vivo and in vitro proof of efficacy. While its effect against blue light-induced stress has already been proven in preliminary studies, the current research takes a closer look at the issue of blue light
41 Multiethnic active for exposome
protection Lipotec has discovered a new, natural active biotech ingredient, Xpozuki, which is able to protect the skin, scalp, and hair against the exposome. On the skin and scalp, it can protect against oxidative damage, and on the hair fibre, it can protect against protein carbonylation and lipid peroxidation.
47 The present and future of skin
microbiome testing The human skin microbiome has recently become a focus for cosmetic industries. Improving our understanding of host-microbial interactions and how to maintain its delicate balance is essential for the development of new cosmetic formulations. Here, Eurofins proposes an integrated approach to support the analysis of microbiome sequencing data by use of skin biophysical measurements
51 3D modelling ofMalassezia furfur
skin interaction Straticell illustrates in a 3D model thatMalassezia furfur invades the upper layers of the reconstructed epidermis with deleterious impacts on the barrier function, inducing an effective immune and inflammatory response, at both gene and protein levels
55 Formulating cleansers with
‘sulfate-free’ surfactants Innospec Performance Chemicals has developed a wide range of chemistries based on both (alkyl) acyl amino acids and acyl (methyl) isethionate chemistries to improve skin mildness in formulations
61 Nano olive oil as potential silicone
substitute Vietnamese outfit Wakamono is developing Nano Olive Oil, which it says is extracted from natural ingredients, safe and friendly to environment and has the potential to completely replace or reduce the use of silicone and polyquaternium in shampoo while maintaining product effectiveness
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November 2022 PERSONAL CARE 68 Revitalising hair beauty with
aminosilicones Since the pandemic, consumers have adopted new trends such as do-it-yourself beauty care and demanding high-performance hair care products that can achieve similar result as in a salon. BRB Silicones looks at how its aminosilicones are specially developed in response to meet this demand to provide multi benefits in conditioning, colour protection, hair shininess, hair manageability and hair smoothness
73 Taking a restorative approach
to skin resiliency Ichimaru Pharcos of Japan details how kaempferol glycosides contained in Dianthus caryophyllus flower extract effect on regulating the production of type III collagen and its related factors. This extract was also found to have useful effects such as improvement of resiliency and reduction of wrinkle degree on human skin, suggesting that it is an anti-ageing ingredient that could be used for various purposes
77 Naturals: Colour without compromise Cosmetic ingredient supplier Azelis takes a
wide-ranging look at the various options available for formulators to achieve colour from many natural sources, with solutions ranging from minerals found in stones, plant seeds oils and flowers for use in powders, oils and extracts
81 Upcycled fragrance waste for
cosmetic actives IFF/Lucas Meyer Cosmetics explain why upcycled Schinus terebinthifolia and Lavandula angustifolia extracts are good examples of how the recently created synergy between the fragrance and cosmetic industries can produce original, upcycled and sustainable cosmetic ingredients with interesting effects
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