ANTI-AGEING
73
Taking a restorative approach to skin resiliency
Masakazu Hashimoto, Kiyotaka Tanaka, Arunasiri Iddamalgoda – Ichimaru Pharcos ABSTRACT
Skin gradually loses its viscoelasticity through, for example, the decomposition and loss of collagen due to the increase in collagen-degrading enzyme,1,2
resulting in noticeable wrinkles and
sagging. Although fine wrinkles around the eyes, such as crow’s feet, can be covered with make- up or continuous moisturising, deep wrinkles and sagging are not easy to conceal. In addition, since light makeup is preferred in modern society, anti-deep wrinkle agents are attracting attention as a research topic in the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries. Although skin wrinkling progresses as dermal thickness is reduced over time due to decreased collagen,3,4
the skin loses its softness
(extensibility) simultaneously, leading to a decrease in resilience.
Focusing on Type III collagen As collagen corresponds to about 30% of the total protein and greatly contributes to the texture of the skin due to changes in physical properties,5
papillary layer is higher than that of the reticular layer,8-10
providing skin softness (extensibility)
and resilience in which stretched skin returns to its original shape within a certain period of time.11 On the other hand, the content of type III
collagen in adult skin decreases by 8-11% due to the effect of ageing and UV rays, and its content relative to type I collagen rapidly decreases.6,12 In particular, a marked decrease in oestrogen levels during menopause is closely associated with a decrease in type III collagen,13,14
and
accelerates the thinning of dermis and the formation of wrinkles.15 It has been reported that a decrease in the
type III/I collagen ratio causes an increase in rigidity and a decrease in resilience,16
resulting it is often the target of anti-ageing
research. Type I and type III collagen are predominant in the dermis, the former, which accounts for 70 to 90%, produces the skin strength, and the latter, which accounts for 18 to 21%, entangles in the gaps between type I collagen fibres and provides softness to the skin and blood vessels, especially in the papillary layer of the upper dermis.6,7 The collagen composition ratio is one of the
major reasons why youthful skin exhibits high viscoelasticity and is considered as an indicator of skin ageing. The type III/I collagen ratio in the
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in a decrease in skin firmness. In addition, in the skin affected by ageing and UV lays, collagen is gradually degraded by activation of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), which is one of the inflammatory responses, weakening the dermis structure and vascular function, resulting in reduced flexibility and water-holding capacity of the skin. Moreover, since the catalytic activity of
MMP-1 is type III > I ≥ II collagen, type III collagen is most affected of them.17,18
Thus, it can
be understood that type III collagen is essential for the physical properties of the skin. Studies relating type III collagen as a target
for texture and appearance of the skin led to the development of a specially processed Dianthus caryophyllus flower extract (DCE), commercially known as ‘BabyColla’. Dianthus caryophyllus, commonly known as carnation, was selected
Type III collagen is a crucial component of the extracellular matrix of various internal organs and skin. Type III collagen in the dermal layer is an essential fibre that provides appropriate softness to the skin and blood vessels, and works for skin repair. In recent years, cosmetics for the purpose of improving wrinkles and sagging have been attracted much attention, and the important role of type III collagen localised in the dermis has been investigated. In this study, in order to rejuvenate the texture and appearance of the skin, we found that the kaempferol glycosides contained in Dianthus caryophyllus flower extract have a remarkable effect on regulating the production of type III collagen and its related factors. This extract was also found to have useful effects such as improvement of resiliency and reduction of wrinkle degree on human skin, suggesting that it is an anti-ageing ingredient that could be used for various purposes.
from several other plant sources on the basis of its efficacy to significantly upregulate type III procollagen production, and its active components were identified as kaempferol glycosides. In addition, DCE has been confirmed to
have various useful effects, such as suppression of MMP-1 secretion, promotion of production of type III collagen maturating enzyme, improvement of skin viscoelasticity (resiliency), and reduction of wrinkles.
Enhancement of type III procollagen production and regulation of related factors DCE was confirmed to significantly improve type III procollagen content and III/I ratio compared to control as shown in Figure 1. Similarly, kaempferol glycosides applied at 500 ng/mL corresponding to 1% DCE significantly enhanced type III procollagen production, thus identifying these components as the active ingredient. Meprin α is considered to be the major cleavage enzyme of type III procollagen and
November 2022 PERSONAL CARE
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