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COVER STORY: ELEMENTIS


Going the extra mile with hectorite clay


Sunscreen systems are often exposed to extreme conditions yet must consistently deliver the active ingredient to provide uniform protection. With the popularity of clean beauty, mineral sunscreens are gaining more attentions as they are more sensitive skin friendly and environment friendly. In response to today’s consumers’ needs,


Elementis offers unique hectorite clay-based ingredients and developed two sunscreen formulations with pure inorganic UV filters that allow formulators to go beyond just UV protection and solve their formulating challenges.


Improved system stability with inorganic UV filters The usage level of inorganic UV filters which can ensure promising protection brings more challenges to the sunscreen systems. The even distribution and suspension of these high amount of particles in the system will directly link to the protection effect, displayed as SPF value, and the stability of the products. Bentone® clay technology creates a


network formed by the clay platelets, which look like a honeycomb, or is often referred to as a house of cards. The clay network enables an even distribution of particles (like titanium dioxide or zinc oxide) and droplets in the system, resulting in a very stable emulsion which is more temperature resilient. In the Dry Touch Mineral Sunscreen (S-


2012-02), Bentone Luxe XO builds a more stable emulsion with relatively light and thin texture. It is worth mentioning that hectorite clay shows good compatibility with zinc oxide,


BENTONE® LUXE XO November 2022 PERSONAL CARE INGREDIENTS ● FORMULATION ●


MANUFACTURE GLOBAL


will ideally create a uniform layer covering the skin surface as shown in Figure 3. After application, many emulsions begin


to pool in valleys, leaving an uneven film on the skin surface. This can be eliminated by the addition of Bentone hectorite clay products. Bentone products exhibit shear thinning and thixotropic flow behaviour. At low shear rates, the hectorite platelets are in a three-dimensional gel network structure, thus creating a high viscosity medium. With the increase in shear rate, the


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Interview: Euromonitor International’s Kayla Villena


In focus: Anti-pollution, Silicones, Testing, SCS Formulate


compared with polymer-based rheology modifiers. Zinc oxide UV filters have better UVA protection, however, it often causes a gelling phenomenon and even phase inversion demulsification when used with common acrylic-based rheology modifiers. In the Physical Matte UV Defense


Sunscreen (S-4002-04), Bentone Hydroclay™ 2100 demonstrates a good compatibility with zinc oxide, and the process does not require any strict conditions.


Improved application When an emulsion is applied to the skin, it


Hemisqualane + Emulsifier (no Clay)


platelets orientate in the direction of flow, causing a decrease in viscosity. On removal of shear, the reformation of the gel structure occurs at a reduced rate than the deformation, thus producing a system with thixotropic flow behaviour. The thixotropic flow provided by Bentone hectorite clay products create a uniform layer of protection on the surface of the skin. For product formulation and processing,


Bentone technology stabilizes products, even at elevated temperatures. For sunscreens with inorganic actives, it efficiently suspends the particles. It provides oil and aqueous phase viscosity building, rheology modification and thixotropic flow. Its rheological properties allow sunscreen formulators to create products giving thick and even skin coverage, ultimately leading to enhanced sun protection and water resistance performance.


Boost SPF and water resistance Tests showed that the addition of Bentone hectorite clay products to a formula can increase the SPF. The underlying theory is that the clay network on the one hand supports a proper distribution of particles


Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/ VP Copolymer


BENTONE HYDROCLAY 2100 Hectorite


Figure 1: Bentone Luxe XO builds a more stable emulsion with relatively light and thin texture


PERSONAL CARE November 2022


Figure 2: Bentone Hydroclay™ 2100 demonstrates a good compatibility with zinc oxide


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