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NEWS


Shiseido unveils role of ring collagen in facial ageing at IFSCC Congress


Japanese personal care brand Shiseido revealed the role of ring collagen in facial ageing that could open up a new world of skin care at the 32nd International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) Congress in London. Shiseido principal chief scientist


at Dr Tomonobu Ezure (pictured) said ring collagen networks are “critical to for human beauty” due to their role in sagging skin. Comprised of fine hairs, collagen


fibres and proteoglycans, ring collagen networks are a “wrapping system of the face” or a “skin tension organiser”, he added. In his ‘A New Horizon in


Antiaging Skin Care’ keynote address, Ezure said Shiseido research into the tensional dynamics of facial skin using AI, 4D imaging and 3D reconstructed skin models found high tension areas are lost in aged skin, while ring collagen is decreased with ageing. Furthermore, ring collagen fibres


become sparce and the proteoglycan layer is decreased in aged skin. These findings led Shiseido to


study ways in which ring collagen could be regenerated. Ezure’s team identified that Wnt-16 protein is highly expressed in fine hair cells of the skin and induced proteoglycan production. The implication of this finding,


backed by studies on organ cultured skin and confirmed in human trials, is that “extending facial skin” once a day to “impose a young skin physical environment”


onto aged faces induced Wnt- 16 protein expression and proteoglycan production, thus increasing the size of ring collagen and rejuvenating the face. These findings “show that ring


collagen provides a new frontier of skin care,” said Ezure. “We believe our technology on ‘skin mechanics reality’ and the discovery of ring collagen provide multiple breakthroughs and open up a new world of skin care.” Elsewhere at the 32nd IFSCC


Congress, BASF presented its latest personal care research findings, including the discovery of the age- dependent decrease of skin-native bacteria and the development of a cosmetic ingredient to fill this gap with live microorganisms. To better understand the


relationship between aging and changes in the skin microbiome, BASF researchers conducted a study with younger and older cohorts. It revealed significant


PBL Technology scoops IFSCC showcase prize


PBL Technology, in partnership with the University of East Anglia, won the Innovation in Action Technology Showcase Challenge at the 32nd IFSCC Congress in London. The prize was awarded for a


waterless dry sheet technology developed by Professor Sheng Qi and her team the University of East Anglia. Norwich-based PBL Technology


says its novel no-heat processing technology gently removes up to 98% of water from cosmetic products while preserving the stability of delicate active


PERSONAL CARE November 2022


ingredients and without the need for preservatives. This, it adds, transforms


products into light weight dry sheets that reduce the carbon footprint and costs of transportation. “With growing numbers of


consumers worried about the environmental impacts of water use and packaging waste, pressure is being placed on beauty brands to create sustainable solutions,” said PBL Technology life science business development manager Dr Georgina Pope (pictured, right). “Our revolutionary processing


technology has the potential to transform the global delivery of cosmetic products and help the beauty and personal care industry to develop environmentally- and skin-friendly formulations,” she added. The Innovation in Action


Technology Showcase Challenge is run by Cosmetics Cluster UK and the Society of Cosmetic Scientists. The other finalists were


Ameva; Dr Elsa Jungman; Keratify; MyMicrobiome; NatPad; Oodee; S-Biomedic; Sequential Bio and The Unseen Beauty.


www.personalcaremagazine.com


differences in the populations of Lactobacillus strains. L. crispatus in particular could


be identified as a ‘youth bacterium’: it was abundant in younger skin, but not detectable in the hollow wrinkle of the older cohort. These results paved the way for


the development of a probiotic for applications for healthful ageing. The research team succeeded in


developing a product that ensured the survival of the bacteria when included in suitable cosmetic formulations. Further research projects cover a


first-time applied novel neuroskin- on-chip method designed by NETRI to create a 3D innervated skin model. Compared to existing innervated


epidermis or skin models made by classical coculture, the novel neuroskin-on-chip technology better mimics the real innervation physiology of skin. It thus facilitates and improves the testing of high performance neurocosmetic active ingredients.


BASF also presented a joint


study with Stanford University on emollients that can reduce skin drying stresses and promote skin wellbeing. To investigate the influence


of cosmetic ingredients’ drying stresses, a team of researchers from BASF and the lab of Prof. Reinhold Dauskardt at Stanford University examined skin care formulations that included different emollients with widely varying properties and molecular structures. The results indicate that by


careful selection of emollients and other ingredients, skin drying stresses can be reduced, and skin wellbeing promoted. BASF also revealed a new


study into the relationship between the skin microbiome and skin sensitivity. BASF scientists examined the composition of the skin microbiota of individuals with sensitive compared to non- sensitive skin. The analysis revealed changes


in presence and abundance of common and specific bacteria strains. For the first time, a droplet-


based microfluidic technology developed by Biomillenia was used to isolate these bacterial strains in culture.


The microbial library thus


obtained can be used to identify and test active ingredients with the best potential to restore the balance of the microbiota of sensitive skin.


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