ANTI-POLLUTION
Benefits of astaxanthin for anti-pollution
Alexander Pototschnik - BDI-BioLife Science
Natural and highly effective ingredients are increasingly becoming important; especially in the field of anti-pollution, the cosmetics industry is constantly looking for new solutions. One possible raw material could be the astaxanthin- containing antioxidant AstaCos® OL50. This COSMOS-certified active ingredient
combines the astaxanthin-containing algae extract Haematoccocus pluvialis with high- quality organic jojoba oil and is standardised to an astaxanthin content of 5%. Due to its enormous antioxidant capacity and its ability to neutralise free radicals, astaxanthin is recommended for use in anti-pollution cosmetics.
The red diamond amongst radical scavengers Astaxanthin belongs to the group of
carotenoids, and more precisely, to the xanthophylls and is considered the strongest natural antioxidant. Several natural organisms are able to produce astaxanthin, such as bacteria, algae and yeasts, but the highest concentrations of natural astaxanthin can be derived from the freshwater microalga Haematococcus pluvialis. Due to its enormous antioxidant effect,
astaxanthin is called the red diamond among radical scavengers and has been proven to counteract reactive oxygen species (ROS) much more efficiently compared to other antioxidants. Thanks to its unique molecular structure, it is non-pro-oxidative.1 The enormous antioxidant capacity of
astaxanthin is due to its unique mechanism of action in our body. The length and shape of an astaxanthin molecule allow it to span the cell membrane, with one end of the molecule in the lipid-soluble part of the cell and the other end in the water-soluble part. Therefore, astaxanthin is able to protect the entire cell. Numerous studies have concluded that
astaxanthin can improve the overall skin health and counteract skin ageing and inflammatory processes (Figure 1). Due to its multiple properties, astaxanthin works exactly where it is needed and penetrates deep into the skin layers. Especially the biological cell protection and the strong anti-ageing effect can be highlighted.
Blue light radiation as part of the pollution Using film-forming agents as a shelter can only protect against physical influences such as
www.personalcaremagazine.com ABSTRACT
Astaxanthin, a reddish pigment from the carotenoid family, is extracted from the alga Haematococcus pluvialis and considered the strongest naturally occurring antioxidant. To minimise long-term skin damage associated with pollution, astaxanthin can be used as a second-line protection. Its anti- inflammatory activity has been known for a long time and has been confirmed by numerous studies. Especially for cosmetic products, BDI-BioLife Science has developed its own raw material containing 5% of astaxanthin. The properties of the red diamond have been substantiated by in vivo and in vitro proof of efficacy. While its effect against blue light-induced stress has already been proven in preliminary studies, the current research takes a closer look at the issue of blue light.
particular matter or chemicals, but not against harmful radiation, e.g. UV, infrared or blue light radiation.2
Especially the combination of daily
radiation and the oxygen-rich atmosphere in which we live generates stress and unwanted processes in our skin.3 Damage caused by sunlight can lead to wrinkling, dry skin and general pigmentation disorders. In the worst case, this damage can even lead to skin cancer. Sunlight consists of many fractions and can be classified by
ROS
Inflammatory processes
Astaxanthin Ageing
Pigmentation disorders
Inflammatory diseases
Figure 1: Astaxanthin acts against oxidative stress and ROS
wavelength and energy level which penetrate the skin into different depths (Figure 2). The UV component of sunlight is absorbed
by the skin, which accelerates the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) in the skin.4 Long-term and combined irradiation of human skin with UVB and UVA leads to reduced skin renewal potential and to structural damage. By penetrating deep into the skin down to the dermis, the rays destroy collagen and elastin which enable the skin’s firmness and elasticity.5 Another type of radiation is infrared
radiation (IR) which includes wavelengths from 700nm to 1mm. Within this group, a distinction can be made between IR-A (700 to 1400nm), IR-B (1400 to 3000nm) and IR-C (3000nm to 1mm). Almost half of the solar energy that reaches the earth’s surface is in the IR range, so, this type of radiation has significant biological effects on the human skin.7,8 Visible light (VL) covers the spectral range
between 400 and 700nm and is classified as non- harmful radiation according to experts. About 40% of the sun’s rays reaching the earth are visible light. Despite the omnipresent irradiation by visible light outdoors, only a few studies have dealt with the effects on the skin to date. VL is may cause various skin diseases as well as phototoxic and photoallergic skin reactions.9 For the cosmetics industry, a specific range
November 2022 PERSONAL CARE
35
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