ANTI-POLLUTION
to the Standard (79.1%) and Control (75.3%). These laboratory test results show that
Esterquat 1 and Esterquat 2 provided an anti-pollution effect by creating a barrier that prevented polluting microparticles from permeating and sticking to the skin.
Hair test To test the anti-pollution properties of Stepan’s esterquats on hair, an in vitro test was carried out on double-bleached Caucasian hair strands. The test evaluated the presence of calcium and aluminium (main composition of dust, based on ISO12103-1) in the hair fibres after they were exposed to simulated dust, by means of electron microscopy scanning method coupled with energy scattering X-ray spectroscopy (SEM-FEG/EDS). Figure 2 shows hair tresses that were
treated with leave-in conditioner formulations containing Esterquat 1 (T04) and Esterquat 2 (T05) exhibited significantly lower calcium and aluminium content compared to untreated hair tresses (T02) and hair tresses treated with a commercial leave-in conditioner (T03). In addition, Figure 2 also shows the hair
tresses treated with the leave-in conditioner containing Esterquat 1 and exposed to dust exhibited lower calcium content compared to the untreated hair that was not exposed to dust (T01). Both tresses treated with leave-in
conditioners containing Stepan’s esterquats did not show significant differences in dust content overall compared to untreated, unexposed hair.
Exceeding sustainability and performance expectations As previously noted, the anti-pollution benefit is just one pillar in the overall value of these novel esterquats. Tied with addressing the pollution concerns of consumers, the second pillar is in their ability to meet numerous sustainability criteria. The most common cationic hair conditioning
agents in the market are behentrimonium chloride (BTAC) and cetrimonium chloride (CETAC). These industry standards for conditioning performance, however, have use- level restrictions in Europe due to their irritation potentials. In addition, CETAC is offered as a low-
active solution, meaning a significant amount of transportation energy use and costs are involved in shipping it. BTAC, while offered as a high-active product, is done so in the presence of a flammable alcohol, which increases transportation costs as a hazardous compound. BTAC is also offered in the presence of long chain fatty alcohols as a high melt-point flake or pellet, requiring energy-consuming, high temperature processes. Esterquats, on the other hand, are known
to be readily biodegradable, mild and less toxic to aquatic life. Stepan, believed in the value of esterquats for the hair conditioning market for these reasons and worked to provide the positive environmental and safety profiles of this chemistry with the combing and conditioning performance of BTAC. Esterquats are generally manufactured by taking a source of long-chain fatty acids,
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Legend: T01
T02 T03 T04 T05
Source: Stepan Figure 2: Percentage of calcium and aluminium (mass%) in hair fibres November 2022 PERSONAL CARE SUBJECT B-INITIAL SUBJECT B-FINAL REMOVAL OF 96.9%* CONTROL-INITIAL CONTROL-FINAL REMOVAL 0F 75.3%*
31
STANDARD-INITIAL
STANDARD-FINAL REMOVAL 0F 79.1%*
SUBJECT A-INITIAL
SUBJECT A-FINAL REMOVAL OF 93.6%*
Figure 1: Results of skin treated with lotions containing Stepan esterquats versus Standard and Control * removal of synthetic dirt applied to the skin
Mass (%) of Ca ■ Mass (5) of AI ■ 3 2.52
2.5 2
1.5 1
0.5 0
TO1 1.22 0.71 0.32 0.09 TO2
Unexposed double-bleached hair Double-bleached hair + dust exposure
Double-bleached hair + commercial leave-in product + dust exposure + SLES 10% Double-bleached hair + leave-in product with esterquat 1 + dust exposure + SLES 10% Double-bleached hair + leave-in product with esterquat 2 + dust exposure + SLES 10%
TO3 TO4 0.25 0.13 TO5 0.16 2.1 1.46
% of mass (m/m)
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92
