36 ANTI-POLLUTION
of visible light is of great importance as contact cannot be avoided. Blue light has a wavelength of 400 to 500nm and is also called high- energy visible light. Most blue light radiation is generated by the sun, but we are also exposed to it due to the increased use of digital screens and artificial light.10,11 Similar to UV radiation, blue light is capable
of generating ROS in the skin, causing significant damage. Unlike UV light, blue light has longer wavelengths and less energy, which allows it to penetrate deeper into the skin layers and cause DNA damage.12,13 The main problem with blue light irradiation
is ROS formation, which, as already mentioned, can lead to further negative effects. For example, individuals with darker skin types are more likely to react to increased visible light irradiation with hyperpigmentation due to the formation of a protein complex that is seen more often in darker skin types and generates the melanogenesis enzymes tyrosinase and dopachrome tautomerism.14,15 When it comes to oxidative stress caused
by blue light, flavins and pigments in the skin are the most important photosensitisers. Furthermore, there is evidence that mitochondrial flavin and cytochrome proteins are degraded by blue light.16 Consequently, the flavins produce
superoxide (O2-) when exposed to blue light, an extremely reactive anion radical and major free radical.17,18
However, the main reason
for blue light damage is probably not the overcoming of cellular antioxidant defences, but the constant production of small amounts of radicals escaping the defence mechanisms. There are several reasons why a
globally effective active ingredient against environmental pollution poses a major challenge. As the range of pollutants and environmental hazards affecting consumers in different parts of the world is incredibly diverse, there are different approaches for the large field of anti-pollution cosmetics. In case you want to specifically counteract
radiation, or more precisely, blue light, you must prevent skin damage at the molecular
Cornified layer
Transitional layer
Granular layer
Moisturizing Factors
deiminated filaggrin monomers
Spinous layer
Free monomers associated with keratin filaments
Dephosphorylation Basal layer Phosphorylation Profilaggrin Figure 3: Degradation of profilaggrin22 Proteolysis Free Deimination
Amino acids > Natural
Proteolysis UVB Epidermis UVA IRA IRB IRC
skin renewal and the skin’s repair system. Filaggrin is an intermediate filament-
associated protein that aids the packing of keratin filaments during terminal differentiation of keratinocytes,21
as well as a major structural
protein that appears to function as keratin- aggregating protein. Filaggrin is stored in the granular layer
Dermis
as profilaggrin in an organellar body called keratohyalin granule.22
Subcutis
Figure 2: Classification of light by penetration depth6
level, which antioxidants are mostly used for.19,20
As mentioned above, one of the most
promising natural antioxidants is astaxanthin. Due to industry efforts to source natural and sustainable raw materials, according awareness is steadily increasing.
Efficacy of astaxanthin on blue light- stressed human ex vivo skin Our skin is subjected to daily assaults by external radiation like blue light. Keratinocytes are the dominant cell type in the uppermost layers of the skin which play a special role in
During keratinisation,
profilaggrin are cut by proteases while the serine threonine residues domains are dephosphorylated to form filaggrin. Hence, the filaggrin degrades into small
peptides which act as natural moisturisers and as UV ray absorbers (Figure 3). Under blue light stress, there is a significant decrease in profilaggrin expression in untreated skin explants.22,23 A recent ex vivo study testing an oleoresin
containing 5% astaxanthin diluted in jojoba oil addressed the issue of blue light and focused on its use as an anti-pollution ingredient. The objective of this study was to evaluate the efficacy of the red diamond in a model of ex vivo human skin explants under blue light stress. More specifically, profilaggrin expression was evaluated on skin explants maintained ex vivo.
Material and methods
PERSONAL CARE November 2022
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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