CIRCULAR BEAUTY
Upcycled fragrance waste for cosmetic actives
Anne Mandeau, Magali Borel, Lisa Fourny, Joan Attia-Vigneau - IFF/Lucas Meyer Cosmetics
Environmental issues like climate change, increasing pollution and endangered biodiversity have gradually become part of the collective consciousness of society. Consumers are more educated than ever before and their habits and practices are changing. They are thus expecting more from the cosmetic brands they purchase, throughout the whole manufacturing process and supply chain of products. Recycling, which transforms waste into
materials of similar value, is no more considered as the most effective way to dispose of things initially intended to be destroyed. Beyond recycling, a new trend is emerging toward upcycling, a process that rather converts a material into something of greater value than it originally was. Circular beauty refers to the use of upcycled
ingredients obtained by transforming leftovers, by-products, waste or discarded materials from other industries into high-value innovations combined with environmental benefits. Creative solutions are much needed for waste
diversion and sparing of natural resources. The key is to treat waste as a valuable commodity instead of viewing it as a problem, in accordance with the core principle of circular economy. The fragrance industry commonly requires
a huge amount of raw materials and generates several tons of waste (spent plant) in the process of extracting essential oils for the making of perfumes. Upcycling of fragrance waste is a step forward on sustainability and opens new opportunities for the cosmetic industry.
After all, fragrance waste still contains
precious non-volatile phytochemicals that remain unaltered by the whole extraction process of aroma compounds. The benefits of upcycling are multiple: it reduces the amount of waste, preserves resources and reduces the need for additional cultivation areas. This is good for the planet as it minimises the cost of production, which is good for producers, and encourages creativity and innovation which have always been crucial for the cosmetic industry. When science and creativity meet, bearing in mind the concept of circular beauty, new innovative and environmentally friendly
cosmetic ingredients can come to life. Sources of raw materials issued from the fragrance industry are abundant and interesting multiple types of compounds and properties can be derived from a wide variety of plant waste. Furthermore, existing strong partnerships
with local farmers assure a full traceability of the supply chain, as well as opportunities to improve agricultural practices and local social development. Spent materials resulting from natural processes such as hydro-distillation, steam distillation and CO2
extraction are
selected for phytochemical screening. Extracts with the best yield and stability
are then subjected to biological screening and clinical studies to document their potential as a cosmetic active. Products are standardised using specific makers of activity, for quality control. Derived from fragrance waste, upcycled
Schinus terebinthifolia (pink berry) and Lavandula angustifolia (lavender) are good examples of such innovative cosmetic active ingredients. The first prevents scalp erythema and flaking in conditions of increased moisture and friction, while the second protects the skin from indoor pollutant-induced irritation and enhances skin luminosity.
Figure 1: Upcycling fragrance industry waste
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Materials and methods Extracts Two IFF/Lucas Meyer Cosmetics upcycled cosmetic active ingredients were evaluated in these studies: Wastar™ Pink Berry (INCI: Maltodextrin (and) Schinus trebinthifolia Seed Extract) and Wastar Lavender (INCI: Glycerin
November 2022 PERSONAL CARE
81
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