COVER STORY: ELEMENTIS ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE
(like titanium dioxide or zinc oxide) and actives (like sunscreen actives), resulting in a uniform film on skin. On the other hand, the thixotropic
behaviour of formulas containing Bentone hectorite clay products allows the formation of a thicker layer after application, giving a better protection. In the Dry Touch Mineral Sunscreen (S-2012-02), we find that Bentone Luxe XO builds a structure with much higher yield value, resulting in an almost doubled SPF value.
Benefits of Bentone Gel, Bentone Luxe and Bentone Hydroclay Products of the Bentone Gel series form extremely stable W/O emulsions with the ability to create a variety of textures. Formulations apply easily without leaving a greasy film on the skin while enabling very uniform coverage of the skin. Bentone Gel products bring multiple benefits to the oil phase of a formulation while remaining up to 99% naturally derived according to the ISO 16128 standard. Emulsifying gels of the Bentone
Luxe series can additionally create cold processable water-in-oil systems with very high oil content, ideal for reaching highest SPF performance. Both systems boost SPF and water resistance of sun care formulations. Products of the Bentone Hydroclay series are up to 100% natural and address consumer needs for COSMOS-approved and vegan ingredients. They create a strong network that boosts stability of O/W emulsions, making them a natural alternative in suspending mineral UV filters while providing heat resilient rheology.
What is hectorite? Hectorite clay, named after the originating area in a location near Hector, California, is an exceptionally pure, non-toxic, non- bioaccumulating, three-layer clay of the smectite family. It is sourced from the world’s purest hectorite mine, near Newberry Springs, California. The hectorite clay was created from volcanic ash by hydrothermal means. The salt beds found in this area in combination with hot springs yielded a unique clay mineral structure that is different to other smectite clays.
Yield Value 5.85 No clay
With BENTONE® LUXE XO
0.1207 Dry Touch Sunscreen No Clay
Dry Touch Mineral Sunscreen with BENTONE LUXE XO
45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0
Cream layer immediately after application Cream layer
7
Skin Surface Cream layer after “Sagging” or “Slumping”
Reduced Protection on “Hill Tops”
Cream layer Skin Surface
Excessive Protection in “Valleys”
Figure 3: When an emulsion is applied to the skin, it will ideally create a uniform layer covering the skin surface
Cream layer containing BENTONE GEL
Skin Surface
Figure 4: The thixotropic flow provided by Bentone hectorite clay products create a uniform layer of protection on the surface of the skin
The extremely efficient swelling capability
and network stability of hectorite is due to the uniform charge density distribution, as the clay was built from a quick volcanic eruption; while bentonite is built from a
In vitro SPF testing 40
longer-lasting weathering process with less uniform charge density distribution. The hectorite clay ore is selectively mined using open-pit mining operations, and the wet processing removes impurities to create different grades of hectorite clay. The platelets are remarkably uniform with
24
respect to elemental composition, charge density distribution and charge location. The hydrothermal conditions created platelets with a thin shape, which results in a favourable edge-to-face surface ratio.
PC
Dry Touch Sunscreen No Clay
Dry Touch Mineral Sunscreen with BENTONE LUXE XO
Figure 5: In the Dry Touch Mineral Sunscreen (S-2012-02), Bentone Luxe XO builds a structure with much higher yield value, resulting in an almost doubled SPF value
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Elementis Services GmbH Stolberger Strasse 370 50933 Cologne, Germany
www.elementis.com
November 2022 PERSONAL CARE
Tau (Pa)
Mean in vitro SPF
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