78 NATURALS
natural mica to more recent alternatives such as calcium aluminium borosilicate. Many of these substrates are suitable for use when naturality is desired as there are a wide range of options that have very high naturality, according to ISO 16128. They are well known for their use in decorative cosmetics, as they frequently used to add impact by either creating or enhancing the desired colour for an wide range of colour cosmetic formulation types, from an anhydrous lipstick to a powder based eyeshadow. They are also used to create a pearlescent effect in the final formulation, which can vary from a high impact sparkle to a soft sheen. A relatively untapped area is their use in
other personal care formulations outside colour cosmetics where a large variety can be used, not for their pearlescent effect but for the inclusion of a colourant which has a ISO 16128 natural origin index of 1, which is perfect for anyone formulating natural personal care formulations. The other advantage of pearlescent
pigments, which makes them highly suitable for personal care formulations, is that they are very easy to disperse into any formulation type ranging from a simple emulsion to an anhydrous oil as they do not require complex and time consuming dispersion techniques to be utilised in order to disperse the pigment. This eliminates the need for dispersing techniques that are commonly used for decorative formulations. These pearlescent pigments only exist in
primary particle form and do not agglomerate unlike raw materials such as inorganic pigments. As dispersion is not required the amount of energy required is very minimal, making it a much sustainable option compared to the use of some non-natural traditional colourants. The variation that is available throughout
pearlescent pigment ranges allows for both subtle and highly coloured formulations to be achieved very easily. Many colours are possible, ranging from yellows, created with a gold pearlescent pigment to a wide palette of pinks, created by selecting an intense red and varying the use level of the pearlescent pigment.
Colour from the earth Historically, the use of clays in a formulation always resulted in colours such as grey, beige or brown that were quite muted, which although were very natural were not appealing to the end consumer. A new range of naturally occurring clays,
which have high naturality required, can be used to obtain colour without the addition of synthetic colourants or dyes in a wide range of formulation types, both water- or anhydrous-based. These clays can be found and collected in Brazil and other parts of the world. Due to the variety of locations where the
clays can be sustainably collected, a wide range of different colours is available due to the variations of mineral and microminerals in each specific region. All of these different coloured clays still
have the same INCI name, Kaolin, making it easy to create a range of formulations with different colours linked to specific skincare benefits based on variations of mineral and micronutrient content. Adding these clays into
PERSONAL CARE November 2022 Annatto
products, such as face masks or hair masks, allows for activity and colour to be linked to the end-consumer benefit of the formulation.
Colour from seeds Another approach to natural colour is the use of natural oils, which has increased dramatically in recent years. They not only add naturality to the formulation but many new exotic oils, some of which have historically only been utilised in the food industry, have taken a step into the world of personal care. Many of these natural oils offer more than just the ability to alter the skin feel of the final formulation but can add colour too. Natural oils can bring colour to a formulation
as well as adding skin care benefits, and as such are predominately used for skincare emulsions and oils. A great example of this is an oil from the Brazilian rain forest called annatto. Annatto oil, has a strong orange-red natural
colouration and is derived from the seeds of the achiote (Bixa orellana) tree, which is a widely cultivated native plant endemic to tropical America and the Amazon. It is widely used to impart a yellow or orange colour to many foods and is the most used source for the production of natural reddish colorants and dyes within Brazil.
The oil is extracted from the seeds and
contains bixin, which is the main carotenoid extracted from the fruit. Bixin has antioxidant properties that protects cells from oxidative damage by free radicals so is perfect for use in skincare products as well as achieving a pale yellow or orange colouration.
Colour from fruit pulp Buriti oil is another natural oil from the Amazon that is highly coloured, and has a distinctive orange-red colouration. The oil is extracted from moriche palm trees (Mauritia flexuosa) found in flooded lowlands on the banks of rivers and streams. This palm is used in multiple ways in the region
with the leaves being used for roofing materials, providing fibre for crafts, and also for making many items such as mats, ropes, and even hats. The pulp can be fermented to make wine as well as in food preparation for the colouration of sweets and ice creams. Buriti oil, is extracted from the fruit pulp, and
is naturally rich in oleic fatty acids and has a high concentration of carotenoids, especially vitamin A. These skincare benefits are utilised in many personal care formulations including after sun treatment creams, to add moisturisation as well as improving skin elasticity. Buriti oil’s fatty acid profile also makes it useful
in formulations for sensitive skin. In addition to its skincare benefits, the rich natural colour can be used to create pale orange to deeper orange-red colour in formulations depending on the use level. Annatto oil and Buriti oil come
from specific communities throughout
Brazil and are manufactured to connect biodiversity with thousands of consumers around the world. Through a relationship marked by transparency, traceability and innovation, their use contributes directly
to regional development and environmental preservation.
Malachite
Colour from flowers Flowers are another source of natural colourants.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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