42 ANTI-POLLUTION Exposome Damage 150 **** ** 100 100 50 50 0 0 **** 150 **** **** **** 200 Exposome Damage
Figure 1: Normalised viability on HEKa-HDFa coculture after incubation with natural active ingredient at 1% and 2% and exposed to exposome stress damage. Data shown as MEAN ± SEM of the mean of 4 independent experiments. Statistical significance; **** p<0.0001; ** p<0.01 calculated using a one-way ANOVA test
As shown in Figure 1 and Figure 2, treatment
with natural active ingredient protects and repairs epidermal keratinocytes and dermal fibroblast coculture from the exposome stress damage.
Protein carbonylation protection from exposome stress on multi- ethnic hair shafts Human hair shafts from Asian (type 1), African (type 4A) and Caucasian (type 1) donors (according to Andre Walker Hair Typing System)
A WHOLE HAIR
200 150 100 50 0
Exposome Stress ** ****
150 100 50 0
** B CORTEX Exposome Stress ns
200 150 100 50 0
Figure 2: Normalised viability on HEKa-HDFa coculture exposed to exposome stress damage and treated with the natural active ingredient at 1% and 2%. Data shown as MEAN ± SEM of the mean of the independent experiments. Statistical significance; **** p<0.0001 calculated using a one-way ANOVA test
were treated with natural active ingredient at 1% (v/v) for 30 minutes. After this time, hair shafts were dried at natural evaporation at room temperature and were stressed with cedar pollen (only for Asian hair), followed by PM10 (150 μg/ cm2
) and UV-A irradiation for six hours. Just after exposome stress, protein
carbonylation was measured using a specific fluorescent probe. For hair shaft cross- sections, in each image, the quantification of carbonylation level was independently obtained for the different compartments
C CUTICLE Exposome Stress ** ****
(cuticle or cortex) and for the whole hair. Three images per condition were used to quantify the carbonylation levels. As shown in Figure 3 (for Afro-textured hair shafts type 4A), exposome stress increases protein carbonylation in a significantly manner. Being proteins the major constituents of hair shaft, is crucial to protect them against the oxidative damage caused by exposome stress. Results indicate that our natural active ingredient have a high efficacy protecting the hair shaft from protein oxidation caused by exposome stress.
D Control Exposome stress 1% natural ingredient + exposome stress
Skin and hair multiethnic clinical study for the evaluation of a cosmetic formulation containing 2% natural active ingredient under exposome stress damage We performed an in vivo clinical study with a final formulation containing the natural active ingredient to confirm the cosmetic benefits of the product under exposome stress damage. For that, a clinical study was carried out in a multi-ethnic panel of 62 healthy, adult female volunteers of Caucasian, Asian, Latin American or African descent, with skin types from skin phototypes from II-VI and hair types from 2A-4B. These volunteers were divided in two
different groups, the active group (applying an active formulation containing 2% of natural active ingredient twice a day, n=32) and the placebo group (applying a cosmetic formulation without any active ingredient, n=30). The skin formulation was applied twice a
Protein Oxidation
Figure 3: Relative carbonylation level in Afro-textured, type 4A hair shaft exposed to exposome stress damage and treated with the natural active ingredient at 1%. Carbonylation level in the whole hair (A) and in the different compartments: cuticle (B) and cortex (C). D In situ visualisation of oxidised proteins on lateral cuticle view and cross-section of hair (sagittal view). Data shown as MEAN ± SEM of the mean of three images. Statistical significance; ** p<0.01; **** p<0.0001 calculated using a one-way ANOVA test
PERSONAL CARE November 2022
day in whole face for 28 days and a leave on formulation was applied once a day in hair for 14 days. All the volunteers spend four hours/daily outdoors in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, a country that is one of the top ten greenhouse gas emitters in the world. Different parameters were evaluated at different time points during the study on skin and hair.
Natural active ingredient treatment improves even skin tone To evaluate even skin tone improvement, skin tone homogeneity was assessed globally on
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Cuticle & Cortex
Cuticle Carbonilation level (%) Viability (%)
Carbonilation level (%)
Carbonilation level (%)
Viability (%)
Basal CTR
Non-treated
Natural active ingredient 1%
Natural active ingredient 2%
Basal CTR
Non-treated
Natural active ingredient 1%
Natural active ingredient 2%
Control Non-treated
Natural active ingredient 1%
Control Non-treated
Natural active ingredient 1%
Control Non-treated
Natural active ingredient 1%
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