68 SILICONES
Revitalising hair beauty with aminosilicones
Tow Kuan Lem, Aylin Bozoğlu, Clara Gil Navarro - BRB Silicones
In today’s competitive personal care market, consumers are demanding more when it comes to hair care products. Consumers value strong, shiny and full-bodied hair as healthy hair.1 To meet these requirements, the hair care
industry develops innovative products with protection and moisturisation claims, which have become important functionality claims in many hair care products, ranging from shampoo to conditioning and styling.
Importance of hair protection & moisturisation Hair become brittle and dull as moisture is lost through daily washing and styling, permanent or temporarily dyed, stress, inadequate diet and hormonal changes.2
Other factors like heat from
grooming tools make hair prone to damage easily.2 Thus, hair care products that help strengthen
and protect hair from environmental factors, colour loss and heat are always in demand. Hair moisturisation is also one of the most
popular claims in hair care products nowadays. The definition of hair moisturisation is different from skin moisturisation. Hair moisturisation is expressed by hair that is easy to comb when wet as well as dry, has healthy-looking shine, and fibres that align more easily to provide a sleek look. Silicone does not provide moisturisation to
hair but when silicone is added to a leave-on or rinse-off hair products, it gives the slippery texture that makes hair feel it is being moisturised.
Specialty silicone as multifunctional ingredient Specialty silicones are a recognized performer to create premium hair care products that help
RO Si O Si O x Si O y Si OR
strengthen and protect hair from environment factors, colour fading and heat. In addition, they can offer a package with combination of moisturisation and repair to restore smoothness, shine and manageability. The multifunctional efficacy of specialty
silicone is illustrated based on an amino functional silicone. A 100% silicone active, it is specially designed to use in conditioning shampoo, rinse-off or leave-on conditioner as well as styling products.3
Bis-Hydroxy/Methoxy Amodimethicone The nature of the primary amine groups enables Bis-Hydroxy/Methoxy Amodimethicone (Figure 1) to develop a positive charge in an aqueous system.4
This cationic polymer readily coats the
negatively charged surface of hair, providing excellent conditioning properties, softening and long-lasting effect. It has a lower amine content but a higher
molecular weight than standard amino oils. Recommended use levels are 0.25% to 3.0% for shampoo, rinse-off and leave-on conditioner and styling products.3
NH H2 N
Figure 1: Molecular structure of Bis-Hydroxy/ Methoxy Amodimethicone
PERSONAL CARE November 2022
Maintaining colour vibrancy The use of a hair dye to colour the hair has been common practice over the last few decades. Although the primary use of the permanent hair dye is to improve hair colour, it is also used to cover up grey hair for both men and women.2 These permanent hair dyes, also referred to as oxidative dyes, are peroxide based alkalising
agents that swell the hair fibre, enabling the dye precursors and a catalyst to reach the cortex. It is observed that hair treated with a red dye are prone to fading after UV exposure and shampooing. Thus, consumers always seek products
for their normal care routine that can help to maintain the colour of hair. The hair colour retention test was conducted
on virgin blond Caucasian hair tresses. The tresses were treated with a commercial red colour dye. The tresses were then washed with shampoo followed by a rinse off conditioner. The tresses were washed and conditioned in 15 cycles. Hair tress A is an untreated swatch, directly
after dying; hair tress B was treated 15 times with control shampoo and conditioner without Bis-Hydroxy/Methoxy Amodimethicone and hair tress C was treated 15 times with shampoo (Formula 1) and conditioner (Formula 2) using Bis-Hydroxy/Methoxy Amodimethicone. The results in Figure 2 demonstrate a
clear improvement in colour fading on hair tresses treated with Bis-Hydroxy/Methoxy Amodimethicone after 15 cycles of washing. Amodimethicone maintains colour vibrancy by forming a hydrophobic surface on hair.
Reduced combing force Hair will experience greater damage especially if an appropriate hair care routine is not made. Hair combing is one of the most basic grooming done daily, thus it is important to assess if hair care products used can facilitate the combing experience, avoiding hair breakage. In the combing studies, if excessive force
was applied, it explained that the comb encountered either more tangles or stronger tangles, thus the hair was not easier to comb. Experiments were conducted in both dry and wet conditions to determine if hair tresses treated with Bis-Hydroxy/Methoxy Amodimethicone would play a crucial role.
Wet & Dry Combing Hair tresses were double bleached following our in-house bleaching protocol and pre-cleaning. The hair tresses were assembled flat and one millilitre of 10% SLES was applied to each tress and gently lathered for one minute. The hair tress was then rinsed for 30 seconds under flowing tap water with a controlled flow rate of four litres per minute. Hair tresses were dipped three times into a
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