ANTI-POLLUTION
The human skin explants used were 11mm in diameter with Fitzpatrick skin phototype 3. The skin explants were stored in an incubator at constant conditions of 37°C and 5 volume fraction CO2
. A genoskin medium was used
as culture medium and Hanks’ Balanced Salt Solution (HBSS) as assay medium. Two different test substances were used in this experiment: ■ Oleoresin containing 5% astaxanthin diluted in jojoba oil ■ 100% jojoba oil (placebo control) When skin explants were received (day 0),
they were cultured for 1 hour before the test compounds were applied topically. Next, the excess of test media was removed with a swab and the surface of the explants rinsed with phosphate-buffered saline (PBS) (day 1). The explants were put in place in the
irradiation chamber and irradiated in the presence of assay medium until 80 J/ cm2
(wavelength 427nm) was reached. The
irradiation was carried out with 427nm, as there are two different types of lamps. The use of Kessil PR160 for blue light
exposure can lead to more stress as it produces shorter wavelength rays compared to other systems (Figure 4). Each skin explant was then treated again with the test compounds and incubated for 30 minutes, before the excess was removed with a swab. Finally, the explants were recovered (day 2). The following test conditions were examined 3 times each before analysing: ■ Untreated skin explants ■ Blue light-stressed skin explants ■ 100% Jojoba oil + blue light-stressed skin explants ■ 0.02% oleoresin containing 5% astaxanthin diluted in jojoba oil + blue light-stressed skin explants ■ 0.05% oleoresin containing 5% astaxanthin diluted in jojoba oil + blue light-stressed skin explants ■ 0.1% oleoresin containing 5% astaxanthin diluted in jojoba oil + blue light-stressed skin explants Profilaggrin immunolabelling was performed
as follows. The skin explants were fixed in formaldehyde solution, the fixed samples
Figure 4: System of blue light exposure (Kessil PR160)22
were then dehydrated in serial ethanol baths with increasing concentration before being embedded in paraffin. Transverse cuts were made with a microtome (5µm thickness, 2 cuts per microscope slide, 1 microscope slide per skin explant) and stored at room temperature for the analysis. The slides were deparaffinised and
incubated at 95°C in an unmasking solution to optimise antigen-antibody interaction. The slides were cooled at room temperature in the same solution. After saturation with blocking buffer (TBS-Tween-2% BSA), the slides were incubated overnight with the primary antibody solution directed against the profilaggrin marker. After washing, binding sites recognised by the primary antibody were detected with a fluorescent antibody (GAM-568). The slides were mounted with ProLongTM containing colour (DAPI) to stain the cell nuclei. The slides were observed with a ZEISS 710
confocal microscope. The images were taken and processed with the ZEN software (lens x20) by ZEISS (Figure 5). Three images were taken per replicate
(nine images per condition). For each marker, fluorescence intensity was measured using ImageJ software. Profilaggrin expression was quantified by measuring fluorescence intensity normalised to epidermal area. The raw data was processed and analysed using Microsoft Excel.
37
Results Blue light stress in ex vivo human skin led to considerable decrease in profilaggrin expression (Figure 6). On the contrary, the use of 0.02% oleoresin containing 5% astaxanthin diluted in jojoba oil already resulted in an increase of 11% in profilaggrin expression. Using a concentration of 0.05%, the
profilaggrin expression increased by 12%. The tested 0.1% oleoresin containing 5% astaxanthin diluted in jojoba oil improved the profilaggrin expression by 15%. The trial with jojoba oil (placebo) had no effect on the profilaggrin expression.22
Conclusion Anti-pollution is more than just a trend; therefore, the demand for these cosmetic products is increasing all over the world. The cosmetics industry is also looking for new ways to protect our skin against harmful influences. As a result, the industry is very innovative and has already come up with a number of ways to combat pollution. With the focus on sustainable products,
efficient and green active ingredients are also becoming more and more relevant. Astaxanthin has been known as an extremely powerful ingredient in nutritional supplements for many years. However, a new study shows that even at
very low concentrations, astaxanthin-containing cosmetic raw materials offer good protection against the negative environmental effects of excessive blue light irradiation when applied preventively and curatively. Further studies on this topic will be carried
out to obtain more reliable data. Due to such promising studies, astaxanthin is expected to become even more important in the cosmetics world over the coming years, and it will certainly also be of interest to a large number of cosmetics brands.
References 1. Ambati RR et al. Astaxanthin: Sources, extraction, stability, biological activities and its commercial applications – A review. Marine Drugs. 12(1), 2014; 128–152
www.personalcaremagazine.com
November 2022 PERSONAL CARE
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92
