84 SKIN PROTECTION
Figure 4: PolluBox TM BIO-EC France. This device enables pollutants to be vaporised into cloud form exposing the surface of the skin to resemble physiological conditions as closely as possible.
species (ROS) induced by UV-B as well as pollution causes over-expression of MMP-1, and thus an increased degradation of collagen resulting in photo-ageing. The greatest effect of MXSO was seen when comparing skin exposed to pollution (Figs 5a and b) that had been pre-treated with MXSO. When compared to vehicle treated skin, the effect of MXSO was more moderate, with no dose-response effect (P1 versus P2) being observed (Fig 5c). This interesting observation of the effect of MXSO on MMP-1 expression warrants further study since it opens up a wider possible application of natural oils beyond that of the skin’s barrier.
Effects against oxidative stress Treatment of skin explants with MXSO resulted in a dose-response decrease of Nrf2 expression, as compared to the
vehicle, bringing it in-line with untreated non-pollutant exposed skin. When the skin explants were exposed to the pollutant mix, the effect of MXSO could not be clearly abstracted from the effects of the vehicle, despite a mild effect on reducing Nrf2 expression (Fig 6) at the higher concentration (P2). However, an effect of MXSO is observed, and as such, further work is required to elucidate these effects.
Conclusion Although these findings are a first step, this is the first report of the potential protective effects of Mideka Ximenia Seed Oil against pollution driven expression of tissue damaging MMP-1 (collagen breakdown) and activation of Nrf2 (oxidative stress) in human skin explants. Further research is required to elucidate the benefits of the long chain fatty acids specific to Mideka
Ximenia Seed Oil, in a variety of pollution focused skin care benefits, as well as their effects in skin-barrier repair. In addition, since these very long chain fatty acids are common to a variety of waxes the potential further applications of MXSO is to be considered.
PC
Acknowledgements The authors would like to thank Rebel Nature (
https://www.rebel-nature.nl/) for the preparation of the test product formulations, and to Bio-EC (France) for study performance.
References 1 Orwa C, A Mutua, Kindt R , Jamnadass R, S
Anthony. 2009 Agroforestree Database:a tree reference and selection guide version 4.0 (
http://www.worldagroforestry.org/sites/treedb s/
treedatabases.asp
Figure 5a: Reduction of MMP-1 expression in standardised pollutant exposed skin explants following MXSO treatment P1 (2%) and P2 (5%), 5 days minus pollutant exposure.
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Figure 5b: Reduction of MMP-1 expression in standardised pollutant exposed skin explants following MXSO treatment P1 (2%) and P2 (5%), 5 days post-exposure pollutant mix.
September 2020
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