NATURALS 45 200 180 160 140 120


Sensolene Light ET (Ethyl Olivate, Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract)


100 80 60 40 20 0 0 10 20 30 40 Brookfield Viscosity, mPa*s (25ºC, 20 rpm) 50 60 70


Hallstar IPP NF (Isopropyl Palmitate) Spectrasolv®


Hallstar Octyl Isononanoate Hallstar IPM (Diisopropyl Adipate) Dicaprylyl Ether Dimethicone 50 cSt Dimethicone 5 cSt Dimethicone 2 cSt


DMDA (Dimethyl Capramide)


C12-15 alkyl benzoate Paraffinum Liquidum Hallstar DIDA (Diisodecyl Adipate) Sensolene®


(Ethylhexyl Olivate)


Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides Hallbrite®


BHB (Butyloctyl salicylate)


Figure 3:Clustering of viscosity/spreadability data shows that Ethyl Olivate, Olea Europea (Olive) Leaf Extract can be classified as a light and fast-absorbing emollient. Corneometry was performed on the


forearm of 12 volunteers against placebo. As shown in Figure 4, the active emollient provides a statistically significant (p>0,05) improvement of skin hydration compared to placebo cream. None of the other substances’ test results were comparable.


Why an antioxidant emollient? According to Mintel, the number of launches of cosmetic products making antioxidant claims has been steadily growing on a global scale. To some extent one could argue that


antioxidation is at the very core of several skin benefits delivered by cosmetic products including, for example, anti-pollution activity


and prevention of damage caused by various sun rays (UV, IR, etc.). Substances with antioxidant properties have been used in cosmetic formulae for decades to both impart skin benefits and protect other ingredients. The more natural a finished product is, the more important is the use of antioxidants to avoid problems linked to the degradation of vegetable ingredients, from stability to unpleasant odors (e.g., rancidity) and discoloration. The antioxidant activity of Olive Leaf


Extract, and its superiority to the comparable antioxidant activity of olive oil, has been well-documented for years. The total antioxidant capacity of ethyl olivate alone was tested against two physical


blends: ethyl olivate plus olive oil and the active emollient. Ethyl olivate showed little or no antioxidant activity, while the addition of olive oil had some positive though not remarkable impact. However, the active emollient demonstrated a significantly higher antioxidant activity than the other two test samples, thus confirming the innovation of this ingredient (Fig 5). Furthermore, the antioxidant capacity of


the active emollient against hydrogen- peroxide-induced ROS (Reactive Oxygen Species) on human keratinocytes was tested after 24-hour treatment with the emollient. As shown in Figure 6, a 51% reduction of ROS was measured with no cytotoxicity on cells detected up to 4 mg/ml.


September 2020


PERSONAL CARE EUROPE


Spreadability Number (adimensional)


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