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78 SKIN CARE


Figure 2: Thymine dimers in purple. Placebo explant+ UV/IR irradiation (left) and explant treated with 1% of MARSturizer (right).


Figure 3: E-Cadherin in purple. Placebo explant+ UV/IR irradiation (left) and explant treated with 1% of MARSturizer (right).


barrier function since it promotes skin lipid synthesis and reinforces cornified envelope by reducing the TEWL.4


In fact, calcium


promotes the intercellular contacts in the epidermis through the adhesion protein, E-cadherin which is a transmembrane glycoprotein calcium-dependent that allows cell-to-cell junctions and tissue cohesion.9 E-cadherin interacts with calcium channels TRPV4


reinforce the skin barrier.7-8


to strengthen the tight junction and Moreover, the up


regulation of calcium channel TRPV3 is essential to activate transglutaminase 1 enzyme involved in the crosslinking reaction between keratins and other structural proteins in order to form the cornified envelope.9-10 Genes STS, SMPD1, SLC27A4, KRT1,


SCNN1A, CERS1 and ELOLV1 involved in lipid synthesis appeared to be upregulated by the novel bacterial ferment, contributing to the support of the skin barrier, and consequently the maintenance of the skin’s hydrastasis.


Skin daily protection IR and UV radiation induces the formation of thymine dimers in the nuclear DNA damaging the cells. Thymine dimers are


PERSONAL CARE EUROPE


produced when adjacent thymidine residues are covalently linked. Moreover, UV radiation cleaves E-cadherin leading to an alteration of the skin integrity.11 To evaluate the skin daily protection


efficacy, 40-year-old human Caucasian skin explants were treated with a cream containing 1% novel bacterial ferment on day 0, 1, 4 and 5 (3 hours before irradiations) and evaluated by immunostaining. In parallel, a placebo cream was used as control. A decrease of 22% of thymine dimers (Fig 2) and a protection of 34% of E-cadherin (Fig 3) versus placebo were observed showing a protection of skin against negative effects induced by UV radiation.


In vivo hydrastasis effect 20 women (35-55 years old, with dry skin and some degree of skin redness on the face) applied a cream with 2% novel bacterial ferment on half face and 1% novel bacterial ferment on volar surface of the forearm left or right (for body assessment), twice daily for 28 days. A placebo was applied on the other half of the face and forearm. Skin hydration and TEWL, were assessed by Corneometer®


, Moisturemap, and Tewameter® , in order to support the


maintenance of skin hydrastasis. The novel bacterial ferment showed


better results than placebo obtaining a hydration improvement of 15% and 16.3%, after 28 days, in face and body, respectively. Moreover, a significant increase was observed after 24h (Fig 4), providing a short- and long-lasting efficacy in face and body. In addition, the group of volunteers that


used the cream containing the active ingredient experienced a higher improvement in TEWL reduction than placebo, with -19% after 28 days and -6.2% after 1 hour proving that water is kept inside and maintenance of skin hydrastasis. Moreover, assessed by Mexameter 18,


day by day, 2% of active ingredient fights against the external aggression since after 28 days it has been observed a reduction by 6.3% skin redness (haemoglobin content) (Fig 5). Additionally, an instant and long-lasting


efficacy in firmness and elasticity were assessed by cutometer with 2% of the novel bacterial ferment improving significantly the face and body elasticity and firmness after 24h and 28 days.


September 2020


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