HAIR CARE 67 Control
Hair locks treated with ACTIVE FORMULA
Hair locks treated with PLACEBO FORMULA
Figure 4: Pictures of hair locks acquired by SEM analysis.
antioxidants and metal chelators. Benefits from natural occurring
antioxidants, coupled with their increased demand from consumers, are highlighted by Mintel (report August 2018) which reports: “As consumers become more aware of the ingredients they eat, drink or use for beauty purposes, interest in natural and food-based ingredients is rising. Using natural food ingredients that are rich in antioxidants can be positioned to help protect hair and lessen pollution damage concerns. As food and antioxidant-rich ingredients cross into beauty and personal care, look for the following haircare trends that are starting to emerge”.13 In response to this market needs,
Bionap, an Italian company that has produced eco-conscious active ingredients since 1997, has developed Olea-HT 10, using as a starting raw material, a by- product of Sicilian olive oil production. In fact, in order to guarantee an eco- sustainable approach, Bionap collaborates with a local supplier who produces the extra virgin olive oil using a cold extraction process, centrifugation in two phases, which is the best method of production. After centrifugation, the extra virgin olive oil, olive oil cake and olive wastewater are produced. The latter has been deeply studied for
September 2020
its remarkable amount of biophenols and it has been processed to get a safe and effective source of beauty. Olea-HT 10 is a natural and sustainable
active ingredient, whose INCI name is Olea europaea (olive) fruit extract, maltodextrin (China listed). It is Ecocert and Cosmos approved and according to the ISO 16128 it has a natural origin index of 1. The ingredient, now referred to as “olive fruit extract”, is suitable for natural, vegan and clean formulations. It is a powder ingredient, preservative
free, standardised in two main compounds, hydroxytyrosol and tyrosol (10-12% HPLC method). They are two well-documented antioxidants, radical scavengers and metal chelators. 14-18 The active ingredient shows a
remarkable ORAC value of 72000 μmolTE/g, higher than vitamin C and vitamin E. ORAC stands for Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity and it is a measure of antioxidant capacity. These features make the olive fruit extract a suitable ingredient to counteract oxidative stress induced by UV, pollutants and thermal treatment. In order to evaluate the capability of the
olive fruit extract to protect hair locks from heat and environmental related damage, we carried out an ex vivo study on hair locks. Hereafter protocols and results will
be presented and commented.
Effect of olive fruit extract on the hair antioxidant capacity and its resistance to UV radiation Ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP) assay Study design Commercially available natural origin hair locks (n=10) are used. Before product application (1.5 ml), hair locks are washed using a neutral (without any claimed efficacy) shampoo, rinsed, dabbed with a paper towel, and dried using a hair dryer. Five (n=5) hair locks are treated with an
aqueous solution (leave on spray) of olive fruit extract (0.5%) and five (n=5) are untreated. Frap assay is carried out. Then, the two groups of hair locks are
exposed to UV radiation using a Sun test CPS+ solar simulator and, hence, submitted again to FRAP
assay.The UV dose applied to the hair locks is 3600 KJ∙m-2
. The chosen
dose corresponds at about 5 hours exposure to the sun at the European latitudes. The assay measures the antioxidant
potential in samples through the reduction of ferric iron (Fe3+
) to ferrous iron (Fe2+ ) by
antioxidants present in the samples. Following the reduction of the ferric iron, a blue colour develops that is read
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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