EYE AREA CARE 53 (3 H)-H2 O (cpm): T0+15min (3 H)-H2 O (cpm): T0+30min 6000 4500 2680 1950 1700 1624 3871 3700 (3 H)-H2
O (cpm): T0+60min 7140
5741 4855 4670
Control
IE(PT+TMG) (0.5%)
IE(PT+TMG) (1%)
IE(PT+TMG) (2.5%)
Control
IE(PT+TMG) (0.5%)
IE(PT+TMG) (1%)
IE(PT+TMG) (2.5%)
Control
IE(PT+TMG) (0.5%)
IE(PT+TMG) (1%)
At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, decrease of the trans-epidermic transfer of the treated water [3H]-H2O, at T0 + 15 min respectively by 27%, 32% and 36%, at T0 + 30 min respectively by 25%, 27% and 30% and atT 0 + 60 min respectively by 20%, 23% and 26% compared to non treated controls.
Figure 5: Study of dynamic water – epidermis.
the ECM that is involved in the breakdown of the ECM and tissue remodelling. It breaks down type II, III, IV, IX and X collagen, proteoglycans and other fibrous proteins (Figs 2 and 3).
Peri-membran proteoglycans At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, the peri-membran proteoglycans rate increases by 25%, 31% and 36% respectively.
Transmembran proteoglycans At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, the transmembran proteoglycans rate increases by 27%, 33% and 39% respectively.
Matricial proteoglycans At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, the matricial proteoglycans rate increases by 29%, 35% and 42% respectively.
Collagens At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, the collagens rate increases by 22%, 29% and 35% respectively.
Elastin At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, the elastin rate increases by 26%, 32% and 40% respectively.
GAG At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, the glycosaminoglycans rate increases by 25%, 33%, and 40% respectively.
Maintains moisture in the epidermis Skin contains between 60% and 80% water depending on its age; the stratum corneum contains 13% to 15%. Skin is considered to be hydrated when this percentage is above 10%, and dehydrated when it is below 10%, resulting in the stratum corneum becoming rough and flaky and losing its integrity. Water follows a path from beneath the
skin to its surface; when it arrives at the surface, the water evaporates. This occurs
September 2020 at a rate of about 5g water/m2 /hour. 300 to 500
ml of water evaporates every 24 hours; its main obstacle is the skin barrier, so it is important that this barrier’s integrity is maintained. This depends on external factors such as temperature and humidity, and internal factors, such as the state of the stratum corneum, the water gradient in the different layers of the epidermis and the integrity of the lipid network between corneocytes. It does not depend on the quantity of static water in the stratum corneum. Naolys therefore studied these two
types of water for a better appraisal of the effect of the plant cell complex. There are two types of water in the
epidermis: l Static water in the stratum corneum that cannot move, this water is held in the corneocytes due to the NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor) and between corneocytes, where it is trapped by lipids, especially ceramides, that are located in the hydrolipid film. This gives the skin elasticity and suppleness.
l Dynamic water that moves, circulating from the dermis to the various layers of the epidermis, also known as transepidermal flux. This water from the dermis brings essential nutrients to the epidermis. It helps to protect the epidermis and maintain homeostasis.
Study of static water – epidermis At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, an increase of water retention in the dehydrated epidermis was observed at T0 + 15 min respectively by 25%, 29% and 33%, and at T0 + 30 min respectively by 28%, 34% and 40% compared to non treated controls.
Study of dynamic water – epidermis At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, a decrease of the trans-epidermic transfer of the treated water [3H]-H2
O was observed,
at T0 + 15 min respectively by 27%, 32% and 36%, at T0 + 30 min respectively by 25%, 27% and 30% and at T0 + 60 min respectively by 20%, 23% and 26% compared to non treated controls.
Study of free fatty acids In the epidermis, at the junction between the granular layer and the corneous layer, the lamellar bodies contained in the keratinocytes fuse with the plasma membrane in the form of lamellar granules that stack up parallel to the surface of the corneocytes and release their lipid content into the spaces between the corneocytes, forming a compact mortar. The lipids in the lamellar granules consist of
phospholipids, cholesterol and glucosylceramides, which are then modified in the spaces between the corneocytes, by specialised enzymes, into ceramides (SC Cer 1-7), cholesterol, cholesterol sulphate and free fatty acids. Naolys thus studied the presence of free
fatty acids, some intercellular lipids essential for corneocyte cohesion, and therefore the quality of the skin barrier, which prevents the evaporation of water. At concentrations of 0.5%, 1%, and 2.5%,
free fatty acids increase by 24%, 29% and 35% respectively.
Strengthening micro-circulation in the skin The dermis and hypodermis are vascularised by a blood network made up of arterioles, capillaries, and veinlets, and by a parallel lymphatic network made up of channels, which enable the transport of the interstitial fluid, between the blood capillaries and cells, into the blood. However the epidermis is not vascularised. Each network has a specific function.
Blood micro-circulation nourishes the skin cells, maintains blood pressure by vasoconstriction, enables the skin to tolerate prolonged periods of ischemia due to the body’s weight, and ensures vasomotor reactivity necessary for regulation, in addition to the usual endothelial functions (coagulation, etc.). The lymphatic system plays a vital role in
regulating the pressure of the interstitial fluid: the excess interstitial fluid is collected by the lymphatic vessels. It enables the elimination of cells, proteins and waste products from the skin. Lastly, it plays a role in defending the skin, as it transports antigens and cells such
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
IE(PT+TMG) (2.5%)
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