NATURALS 23
polyphenols but also vitamins C, B and E, is of considerable interest for products designed to fight ageing. The pulp of the baobab fruit is known as a traditional food, but it also has therapeutic properties. Just as hibiscus can be useful in alleviating muscle contractions, baobab extract acts as an antidote to the paralysing effects of strophanthin. This property is traditionally used in Africa to detoxify wild animals that have been killed using arrows dipped in this poison, by pouring the baobab pulp onto the wound of the killed animal, before the meat is eaten. Studies show that the adansonine active molecule in the baobab counteracts the poisonous effects of the strophanthin by competing with it and occupying the same receptor sites, thus limiting its paralysing effects. We focused on this property and have shown that, in the absence of competing molecules, baobab inhibits muscle contractions. Inspired by these local practices
observed by ethnobotanists, Alban Muller Group came to cosmetic potential applications of these plants from the “overseas biodiversity”. The combination of extracts of white hibiscus flower and baobab fruit is a particularly relevant and effective development when it comes to fighting the signs of skin ageing. Repulpami ER Cosmos Certified (now
referred to as ‘the anti-ageing active’) is an innovative cosmetic active Cosmos-certified made of organic white hibiscus calyx (commonly, though incorrectly, referred to as the flower) and organic baobab fruit pulp extracts in organic glycerin. INCI: Glycerin (and) Water (and) Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract (and) Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract.
Fair & organic sourcing The anti-ageing active is developed in accordance with Alban Muller eco- responsible and social-responsible commitment. White hibiscus and baobab are organic
and sourced from fair trade in Kaffrine and Kedougou regions in Senegal. The plants are manually harvested by a group of women producers in which remuneration is practiced without intermediaries for perfect equity. They work in compliance with the rules of organic farming. Equipped with materials guaranteeing hygiene and good production conditions, these women ensure impeccable product quality. The work of this group of women producers enables investment in school fees and the education of children (Figs 4,5,6). The manufacturing of white hibiscus and
baobab extracts is performed in Alban Muller’s production site GMP certified and uses eco-friendly technologies. The extraction process includes maceration in water and organic ethanol from plant origin followed by a concentration and a unique
September 2020 nOrganic Repulpami ER at 5% n Control (not treated) n Reference (carisoprodol)
100% 80% 60% 40% 20% 0%
02 6 Incubation time (hours)
Figure 8: Anti-wrinkle action.
120% 100% 80% 60% 40% 20% 0%
100%
compared to a control. The contractions are observed under a microscope and counted (Fig 8). The anti-ageing active reduces muscle
45%
contractions and therefore, has a natural, non-toxic anti-wrinkle effect. The reduction in wrinkles was also confirmed by an in vivo self-assessment test on volunteers (see section on ‘self-assessment test’).
Control (not treated) Organic Repulpami ER at 0.008%
Figure 9: Plumping action.
drying step called zeodration, a low temperature, energy-saving process, which preserves the plant-based active ingredients, an expertise of Alban Muller Group (Fig 7). The dry native extracts are then stabilised in an organic Brassica napus subsp. napus glycerin carrier.
Tested activities Anti-wrinkle action Wrinkles are one of the first visible signs of skin ageing. The wrinkles called expression lines come about as a result of repeated muscle contractions by the facial muscles on a less supple and flexible skin. The expression line develops perpendicular to the direction in which the muscle pulls. They reflect facial expression such as laughter, sadness, etc. Thus, temporarily inhibiting the contraction of facial muscles can also limit the appearance of wrinkles. The most widely known method is the use of botulinum toxin, needed to be administered by injection but it may also carry risks. The anti-ageing active offers a gentle, natural and non-toxic solution. To demonstrate its activity, a test was
carried out on a co-culture of muscle and nerve cells to measure the effect of 5% anti- ageing active on muscle contractions and
Plumping action An innovative approach of sirtuins in cosmetics. The sirtuins are proteins which act as enzymatic deacetylases and are coded by sir genes. They are present in most living organisms including in the cells of the dermis and epidermis and more specifically in the fibroblasts and keratinocytes. The sirtuins are transcription factors which regulate the expression of certain genes involved in a variety of cell processes such as repairing DNA, modulating apoptosis, regulating glucose levels and adipogenesis. They act by eliminating the acetyl group from certain molecules, thus disactivating them, hence the name of their gene: sir (Silent Information Regulator). Sirtuin-1 regulates the differentiation of adipocytes, by repressing the PPAR gamma nuclear receptors (Peroxisome Proliferator Activated Receptor).10
PPAR gamma
receptor expression is abundant in adipocytes in the hypodermis, where adipogenesis happens. Stimulation of these receptors through the activation of the various molecules responsible for adipogenesis (ligands) allows pre- adipocytes to differentiate and become mature adipocytes. Sirtuin-1 stimulation weakens the bonds between ligands and PPAR gamma receptors and causes a decrease in mature adipocyte formation. It is this feature of lipid metabolism that is used in cosmetic slimming and contouring products which stimulate sirtuin-1. The regulation of adipogenesis by sirtuin-1 has alerted us to an innovative anti-ageing
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE 24
Expression of SIRT1 gene Muscle contractions (%)
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